Plants That Your Cat Shouldn’t Eat

Plants That Your Cat Shouldn’t Eat

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

Cats love plants. Though they’re strict carnivores, cats like to eat plants even though doing so can make them ill. The consequences can range from simple vomiting to liver failures, seizures and even death. And while most animal species learn to stay away from things that make them sick, cats will eat plants over and over with the same results.
Unfriendly Flowers

A wide variety of plants are poisonous to cats. Some of the more dangerous are castor bean, foxglove, lily-of-the-valley, Japanese yew, oleander, azalea, rhododendron and hydrangea

. One castor bean seed can kill, and mistletoe is deadly.

Flowers such as amaryllis, daffodils, iris, hyacinth and honeysuckle also are poisonous. Christmas trees, pine needles and even water from around the base of Christmas trees can produce oral irritation, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, trembling and hind end weakness.

Poinsettias aren’t seriously poisonous, though they can cause gastrointestinal irritation and vomiting.

A  plant family that causes serious problems – but is often left off lists of poisonous plants – is the lily family, including the Easter lily, tiger lily and star-gazer lily. “This is a major cause of acute kidney failure in the cat.

To Protect Your Cat

Keep known poisonous plants out of your cat’s reach.

Watch for plants that have been chewed on.

Watch your cat for symptoms of poisoning.If Your Cat Eats a Bad Plant

In order to treat a plant-poisoning problem, it’s important for you and your veterinarian to know specifically what plant your cat consumed. Since both common names and scientific names are used, make sure the identity is correct. If you’re unsure, it might be good to go to a nursery or florist, or bring the plant to your veterinarian for identification.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

How to Plant a Cat-safe Garden

How to Plant a Cat-safe Garden

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

This is the time of year when many people look forward to spending free time outside, enhancing their surroundings with lush plants and flowers. As many pets enjoy being outside in the warm spring and summer months, too, some thought must be given to their safety in the lawn and garden. With a little careful planning, you and your pet can enjoy a safe and relaxing garden environment. Whether you’re planning a large garden to feed the family or decorating a small space with hanging baskets and containers, here are a few factors to be considered.

Plant Selection

Plants and flowers are nature’s attention getters. Their fragrance, appearance, and cool shade they create are natural attractants for you and your pet. Curiosity often leads pets to consume the flowers and foliage of ornamental plants, which can produce irritating and sometimes life threatening side effects.

When planning your garden, select plants that are non-toxic if touched or consumed.

Plants for a Sunny Location

If the location of your garden gives you 4 or more hours of direct sunlight a day, you have a long list of annuals and perennials from which to choose. Annuals grow from seed and last one growing season. They are good choices for fast, instant color impact. Garden and discount centers will offer a wide variety of annual plants at economical prices. Perennials return year after year from growth at the roots, they are a little more expensive, but do not need to be planted every growing season. Most gardeners have their favorites and mix both types for the longest possible color show. Safe choices for sunny locations include:

Annuals

Zinnia (Zinnia sp.)

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum sp.)

Cosmos (Cosmos sp.)

Calendula (Callendula sp.)

Petunia (Petunia sp.)

Perennial

Bee Balm (Monarda sp.)

Phlox (Phlox sp.)

Roses (Rose sp.)

Catmint/catnip (Nepeta sp.)

Coneflowers (Echinacea purpura)

Plants for Partial Sun

If your garden receives less than 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, the following list of non-toxic annuals and perennials requires less sunlight.

Annuals

Primrose(Primula sp.)

Butterfly flower(Schianthus sp.)

Spider flower (Cleome sp.)

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum sp.)

Perennials

Columbine(Aquilegia sp.)

Coral Bells (Heuchera sp.)

Turf Lilly (Liriope sp.)

Goat’s Beard (Aruncus dioicus)

Shade Gardens

A shade garden receives little to no direct sunlight, although the sun may filter through the trees for dappled light. Plant selection for these areas may include the following:

Annuals

Begonia (Begonia sp.)

Impatiens (Impatiens sp.)

New Guinea Impatiens

Violet (Viola sp.)

Coleus (Coleus sp.)

Perennials

Hosta (Hosta sp.)

Bugbane (Cimifuga racemosa)

Yellow Corydalis (Corydalis lutea)

Astilbe (Astilbe sp.)

Queen of the Meadow (Filipendula ulmaria)

Vegetable Gardens

If you’re interest is vegetables, you’ll need 4 or more hours of full sun for most plants. Keeping your pet out of the vegetable garden may be your biggest task, especially when plants are young and fragile. Some clearly visible fencing may help. Avoid hardware cloth as pets can become entangled. Motion detector sprinkler can be useful in keeping pets and wildlife out of newly planted areas, and are not harmful. Most vegetable plants do not pose toxicity problems with a few exceptions. Onions, chives and garlic, which a lot of pets do like, contain compounds that, if ingested, can cause anemia. The leafy part of the potato plant, and the green part of the potato skin contain compounds that are toxic if eaten in sufficient quantities. Fruits also contain toxic chemicals in their seeds/pits. Apple, plum, cherry, apricot and peach seeds/pits contain cyanide, which can cause fatal seizures.

The 10 Least Wanted

The following is a list of plants that is best to avoid altogether due to their toxic nature. It is not a comprehensive list, if you are considering any plant of which you are unsure; consult your local plant nursery.

Castor bean (Ricinus communis)

Oleander (Nerium oleander)

Morning Glory (Ipomea sp.)

Japanese Yew (Taxus cuspidata)

Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum)

Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

Nightshade (Atropa belladonna)

Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)

Precatory Beans (Arbus precatorius)

Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans)

Lawn and Garden Chemicals

It is very easy to reach for a chemical pesticide, fertilizer or fungicide when faced with a problem in the lawn or garden. Fortunately for the average home gardener, safer alternatives are available for most commonly encountered problems, reducing the risk of a toxic exposure for your pet. You would not think that your pet would have any reason to consume these products but sadly they do, either intentionally or inadvertently and these types of poisonings are all too common. Remember before applying any product to your lawn, vegetables, or ornamental plants to read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Many of these products are designed to persist in the environment days to weeks after application, so a pet can have an exposure days to weeks after initial application.

Alternatives to Chemical Pesticides

If you notice damaging insects on your plants such as aphids, spider mites or thrips, these insects can be eliminated or reduced by a simple spray of water. These soft-bodied insects are easily dislodged. Adjust the nozzle of your hose so a firm spray will not harm your plants and wash them away. If you have only a few plants, use a good stream of water from your watering can and a little hand washing. It may take a day or two but an infestation can be cleared by no more than a good shower!

Soap and Water

If your insect problem is more serious, add a teaspoon of dish soap to a gallon of water and use it in a garden sprayer. The soap is an irritant to a lot of insects and can help break down the protective barriers of their external skeleton. There are commercial insecticidal soaps available that are less toxic than most chemical alternatives.

Compost

The “black gold” of the garden, recycled kitchen and yard waste can be combined to produce the best garden fertilizer at no cost and reduce the need for chemical fertilizers. It can be applied to the lawn and garden twice a year and it will replace the essential nutrients that growing plants and grasses require.

And Don’t Forget

Sometimes we forget the simplest things! Put your pets inside when mowing the lawn. A lawn mower can make a projectile out of a stick or rock that can injure your pet. Paint your garden tools a bright color such as red or yellow so you can see them out in the yard. Many pets step or trip on sharp garden implements. Store your chemicals out of reach and in their original containers. Don’t assume your pet will not be interested in consuming these products. If there is a toxic exposure or consumption, call your veterinarian immediately with the information from the product label. Keep your pets inside when applying any chemicals to the lawn or garden. With a little planning you and your pet can enjoy a safe and beautiful garden.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Garden & Lawn Hazards in Cats

Garden & Lawn Hazards in Cats

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

In the summer, children love to spend time in the sandbox. Many adults enjoy the peace and tranquility of gardening. If your household includes a cat that also enjoys time outside, a sandbox or garden is often considered an attractive outdoor litterbox. Your cat’s natural preferences for elimination includes soft sand- or soil-type material so the attraction to these areas can be annoying or even hazardous to your health. Fortunately, there are methods that can be used to discourage this unwanted behavior.

Snail and slug baits are frequently used, and if ingested, cause serious and potentially fatal tremors and seizures.

Citronella candles are used to deter mosquitoes but may cause gastrointestinal inflammation in cats, resulting in vomiting and diarrhea.

Mulch. Most mulches are safe if ingested but there is one uncommon but potentially toxic type of mulch. Cacoa bean mulch is made from the hulls of cacoa beans and when fresh has a rich, chocolate aroma. Ingestion of large amounts of fresh mulch can result in chocolate toxicity. To keep your pet safe, keep him away from the mulch until the chocolate aroma has gone. A thorough watering or heavy rainfull often reduces the potential toxicity.

Many products are used to create beautiful lawns and productive gardens. With proper handling, use and storage of these products, illness and potential tragedy can be avoided. Keep lawn and garden products stored in an area that your pet cannot enter. During application of these products, keep your pet confined in a safe area. Should exposure to any of these products occur, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Keeping Your Cat out of the Sandbox or Garden

Keeping Your Cat out of the Sandbox or Garden

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

In the summer, children love to spend time in the sandbox. Many adults enjoy the peace and tranquility of gardening. If your household includes a cat that also enjoys time outside, a sandbox or garden is often considered an attractive outdoor litterbox. Your cat’s natural preferences for elimination includes soft sand- or soil-type material so the attraction to these areas can be annoying or even hazardous to your health. Fortunately, there are methods that can be used to discourage this unwanted behavior.

Sandbox Covers

The most effective way to discourage your cat from using your child’s sandbox is to prevent access to it by covering it when not in use. A hard plastic cover available a local hardware stores does an excellent job. It has the extra advantage of protecting the area from rain and keeping young children from playing while unsupervised. These covers can be secured and are easy to clean.

On the downside, they can require more space to store. An alternative is to use a tarp, which is flexible and requires little space but may need to be secured around the edges to keep it from accumulating rainwater or blowing away.

For the do-it-yourself homeowner, a custom top can be constructed using lengths of PVC pipe. Make a frame slightly larger than the perimeter of the box. Cut a length of hardware cloth and attach in to the pipe with wire or staples. Eliminate all sharp edges. Cover the top with canvas fabric so the wire is not exposed. If your play area is a shape other than rectangular, PVC pipe is a flexible version of PVC and can be bent into curves and circles. Using large whole hardware cloth or chicken wire is not recommended because of the danger of your pet and children becoming entangled.

Spray Repellants

For both sandboxes and gardens, there are a variety of commercial sprays designed as animal deterrents. They contain preparations that are offensive, but not harmful, to cats. Applying these sprays around the box or garden border when it is first installed in the spring is often helpful. Rain and sunlight will decrease their effectiveness so they have to be reapplied regularly on a calm day to discourage drifting. A homemade preparation of garlic and onion works too. In a blender, add 2 cloves of garlic and 1 small chopped onion to 2 cups of hot water. Blend thoroughly. Strain the pulp through a cheesecloth or strainer and discard or add to the compost pile. Use the liquid in a garden sprayer around the perimeter of the sandbox or garden. Let it dry before children and pets have access.

Other Ideas

Some people have tried placing a thin layer of decorative rocks or stones over the soil to make the garden unattractive to cats. Unfortunately, this method is limited to the type of plants in your garden.

Some gardeners have tried mixing mothballs into the soil. The odor of the mothballs is a deterrent to some cats. You must be careful when using mothballs since overexposure can cause illness in your cat.

Given Their Own, They’ll Leave Yours Alone

If the above suggestion still aren’t deterring you determined feline, how about considering a space in the yard/garden that only your cat will enjoy? A small space with cat-attractive plants could be established in a quiet corner of the yard away from children’s activities. Common choices for plants would include catnip and catmint. Both are easy to grow, and provide attractive foliage for the yard. Take an extra litter pan and dig it into the soil so its surface is flush with the ground. Add a little sand and a handful of dirt. Since cats prefer privacy for their eliminations, a quiet hidden spot such as this may do the trick. It will, however, need to be cleaned like any other cat box. One word of caution, both catmint and catnip produce beautiful fragrant flowers that are attractive to bees. To prevent your cat from being stung, remove the flower stalks before they open with a gentle pinch. Don’t forget to dry some catnip for your cat as an extra treat!

If your cat does persist in soiling the sandbox or garden, it is a good idea to check for feces before children get into the sandbox or you start working in the garden. Cats can shed parasites in their feces that are harmful. The sand in the box may also need to be replaced on a regular basis, although replacing dirt is not practical. And all people playing in the sandbox or working in the garden should wash their hands when they are finished.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Outdoor Dangers

Outdoor Dangers

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

So, you believe that cats with the fancy pedigrees are for someone else, thank you very much. You enjoy nature in its basic, pristine form, and the good old Heinz-57 All-American Cat is your companion of choice. Along with that choice, you are convinced that the basic cat, with his instincts fully intact because of natural rather than manmade selection, will be happiest if he is allowed to enjoy the great out-of-doors.

Whether pedigreed or random-bred, the vast majority of cats can be perfectly happy indoors, calmly watching nature from the safety of their home, as long as a stimulating environment is provided.

In fact, most United States cat experts – the Cat Fanciers Association, humane organizations and others – are continually trying to reach the public with the message that keeping a cat indoors protects him from disease and all manner and means of danger.

These include the threat of contagious diseases such as feline leukemia, feline immunodeficiency virus, feline infectious peritonitis and rabies, besides the ever-present dangers from cars and larger predators.

However, some cat behaviorists in Great Britain believe that keeping cats indoors may contribute to behavior problems, such as house soiling. They claim that cats are not allowed to vent their natural expression indoors.

Safety Issues

The dangers that a cat can face when allowed out unsupervised depend a great deal on where the cat lives – urban, rural, or suburban area. In general, an outdoor cat faces the following risks:

Disease. Feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency syndromes are two diseases that cats spread from one another. Unaltered male cats are at particular risk because they tend to fight, and both diseases are spread by contact through the saliva.

Unwanted pregnancy. Your unaltered female cat may return to you “in a family way.”

Parasites. Ticks, fleas and worms usually attack outdoor cats and can be brought into your home, where they can spread to both you and your other pets. Fleas and ticks cause allergies, skin irritation and anemia. In addition, trying to rid your home of these insects can get complicated.

Accidents. Outdoor cats face the risk of being killed by motor vehicles. Naturally, this is more common in urban areas. They could also get caught in traps meant for other animals or consume poisonous substances. Far from home, they may not be able to get back.

Predators. In rural areas, cats can fall victim to larger predators. This can include dog fights, cat fights and wildlife as well as humans. Outdoor cats can suffer torn ears, cut eyes and abscesses and have a much greater risk of gunshot injury than indoor cats.

Laws. If caught in someone’s yard, your cat could be taken to an animal shelter. Without identification, the shelter may put the cat to sleep after a period of time. In fact, euthanasia kills more cats than all other dangers combined.

Dusk and dawn are the most dangerous times for a cat to be out. In rural areas, these are the primary hunting times for many larger predators; in cities and towns, they are the times that visibility for drivers is particularly low. The safest time for a cat to be outdoors is during the daytime hours.

Keeping Your Outdoor Cat Safe

There is a compromise: Free-standing chain-link enclosure designed as a dog run can be adapted to a cat by adding a top. These enclosures are available from fencing companies and some hardware stores.

Another possibility is to train your cat to accept a harness and leash for supervised outdoor walks. The training process does require some patience, but is not nearly as difficult as generally portrayed, and both of you can enjoy the outdoors safely.

If you believe your cat should be outside, you can take steps to reduce the risks:

Vaccinations, It is particularly important to protect your cat against rabies (which is the law and just plain good sense). It is important to know that feline vaccinations are neither complete nor 100 percent effective against the spectrum of fatal feline viral diseases such as feline leukemia.

Make sure that your cat has access to an environment that is clean and safe. Do not leave antifreeze, lawn chemicals, rat poisons, or other harmful substances in the garage or shed where your cat can find them. You would not think that your pet would have any reason to consume these products but sadly they do, either intentionally or inadvertently, and these types of poisonings are all too common.

Before applying any product to your lawn, vegetables, or ornamental plants, remember to read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Many of these products are designed to endure in the environment days to weeks after application, so a pet can have an exposure days to weeks after initial application.

Curiosity often leads pets to consume the flowers and foliage of ornamental plants, which can produce irritating and sometimes life-threatening side effects. When planning a cat-safe garden select plants that are non-toxic if touched or consumed.

Provide shelter for your outdoor cat. Consider letting your pet in during extreme temperatures – hot or cold – and during severe weather. Otherwise, provide a porch, cat box, umbrella or some other type of protection.

Neuter or Spay outdoor cats. This is important for the health of your cat (and your own sanity) even if she doesn’t go outside. It is also important in controlling unwanted cat populations. In addition, without the powerful reproductive urge, your cat is less likely to wander from her property. Male cats are much less likely to fight (which can lead to injuries and infection).

Identify your pet.

Safety collars. A collar with your name and phone number will reduce the risk of your pet being euthanized as a stray. Without some form of identification, the cat is likely to become a victim of the system.

Microchip technology is permanent and relatively inexpensive. Microchipping is also a good way to identify your pet if he/she would appear at a local veterinary hospital, emergency clinic or humane society. Check to make sure that shelters in your area do scan for microchips on incoming animals, and that their reader is one that will at least detect the presence of a chip, even if the chip is a competitor’s brand.

Keeping your cat safe is not the only issue. Keeping birds safe from outdoor cats is also a concern. Thousands of birds are killed each year by prowling cats. In some areas, the populations of certain songbirds has been drastically diminished by cat attacks. To help keep birds safe, consider adding a bell to your cat’s collar or provide your cat an escape-proof area so he can safely enjoy the outdoors without destroying it.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

How to Kitten Proof Your Home

How to Kitten Proof Your Home

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

Cats are curious critters, and, once you bring your cat home, she will want to explore every inch of your house. Like a small child, your cat will get into things she shouldn’t unless you keep potentially harmful objects out of reach. Like child-proofing for a toddler, cat-proofing your home is vital to your cat’s safety and well being.

Household Hazards

Furniture. Certain types of furniture are potentially dangerous to cats. Reclining chairs can trap a cat that crawls inside, so check for your cat’s presence under the leg rest or inside the recliner before returning it to an upright position. Rocking chairs can roll on a cat’s tail or foot, so make sure your cat isn’t sitting near the rocker when you decide to take a break.

Ironing boards . Irons left standing can topple over and injure your cat, so put them away when you are finished. Don’t leave hot irons unattended.

clothes dryers. Because cats love to snuggle in small, warm spaces, they often crawl into clothes dryers if the dryer door is left open. Many cats have perished when their owners turn the dryer on without realizing the cat is inside. Close the dryer door after you remove a load of clothing to keep your cat from taking a nap in a potentially dangerous location.

Electrical cords. To keep your cat from accidentally electrocuting herself, tie up loose electrical cords or conceal them in hard plastic or rubber runners purchased at the hardware store. If your cat hogs the heat from heating vents in the winter, fit her with an elastic or break-away collar so she can pull away if her identification tags become caught in the grate.

Small objects. Small objects, such as coins, pins, needles, rubber bands, paper clips, staples,nails, screws, yarn, thread, dental floss, earrings and other small jewelry, bells and small balls, left lying around can lodge in your cat’s digestive tract if swallowed. Keep them safely out of your cat’s reach.

Windows. To keep your cat from accidentally falling or escaping through an open window, fasten window screens securely.

Toilets. The toilet can be a popular watering hole for a cat. A small kitten could fall in and drown or a cat could become poisoned if the toilet contains an automatic toilet bowl cleaner. Keeping the toilet lid down may prevent a feline tragedy.Potential Poisons

Plants. Many common household plants are poisonous to cats. They range from lily-of-the-valley and daffodils to rhododendron and hydrangea. Eating them causes symptoms ranging from stomach upset to convulsions or death.If your cat enjoys eating greens, try supplying her with a pot of grass to satisfy her cravings.

Chemicals. Chemical cleaning products are poisonous if your cat ingests them. If using chemical cleaners concerns you, substitute safe cleaning products such as vinegar/water mixtures or baking soda. Cats are fastidious, so if you do use chemical cleaning products wash away the residue so your cat will not get it on her feet or hair. To keep your cat from opening the cupboards where you store cleaning products, attach safety latches to the cupboard doors.

Ovens. When cleaning the oven, close the door to prevent your cat from walking on the chemical oven cleaner, and, after removing your latest culinary creations from the oven, be sure to close the hot oven door to keep your cat from burning her paws if she jumps on it.

Antifreeze. All antifreeze is poisonous to cats. Even antifreeze made of propylene glycol is toxic if your cat ingests enough of it, so keep antifreeze spills cleaned up.

Drugs. Common anti-inflammatory drugs such as aspirin and ibuprofen are extremely toxic to cats as well as analgesics such as aceteminophen (Tylenol). (For more information, see the related article Acetaminophen Toxicity.) If your cat ingests only two regular strength Tylenol tablets within a 24-hour period, it may be lethal. Keep all medicines out of your cat’s reach and don’t let your cat play with pills that might have fallen to the floor. Pick them up and throw them away.No house is 100 percent safe, but you can reduce the risk to your cat and create a cat-friendly environment by vigilantly keeping potential hazards at a minimum. Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Microchipping for Your Cat’s Safety

Microchipping for Your Cat’s Safety

By: Christian Yost

March 23, 2009

Microchips are fast becoming a popular method for permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. The chip is small, compact and easily inserted under the skin. But once inserted, there are two other equally important components of the microchip system that must be in place in order to properly identify and return lost pets to their owners; the microchip scanner and an accessible and accurate database. However, there is controversy regarding the chips and scanners.

The Controversy

AVID® and Home Again® microchips read on a frequency of 125 khz and have been commonly used in veterinary hospitals and shelters across the United States. Each company has universal scanners that can identify chips from each other as well as other microchip companies that create chips that are also 125 khz.

Controversy involving microchips exists because one company (Banfield®) introduced a chip that was 134.2 khz and incompatible with other readers. Therefore, pets chipped with Banfield® microchips could not be identified with the most common microchip scanners on the market in the U.S. Banfield has since stopped selling the undetectable microchips in their clinics. Recently, Home Again® announced a new scanner that will read all 125 kHZ microchips and detect 134 kHz chips.

The Microchip

The microchip is a tiny computer chip or transponder about the size of a grain of rice. It stores an identification number and transmits that information through radio waves to the appropriate scanner. Typically, the microchip number contains 10 characters, making available 275 billion separate codes. This makes it highly unlikely that the same identifying code will be used more than once. Rest assured that your pet will have a unique microchip code.

Microchips are composed of a silicon chip and tiny antenna encased in biocompatible glass. The microchips come pre-loaded in a syringe, and the needle is inserted just under the skin between the shoulder blades where the microchip is implanted. The entire procedure takes less than 10 seconds and is only as painful as a vaccination injection.
After injection, the tissue surrounding the microchip reacts to this new substance and forms a casing. This helps prevent migration of the microchip. Since the microchip is made of biocompatible material, rejection is uncommon and infection at the site is very rare.

The Microchip Scanner

The microchip scanner is used as a power source for the microchip and is used to receive the message encoded in the chip. The scanner uses electromagnetic energy to empower the chip to transmit its message through radio waves, which are normally at specific frequencies for each manufacturer of microchips. For this reason, in the past, not all scanners could read all brands of microchips.

In an effort to address this potential problem, in 1996, the International Standards Organization published that universal readers must be produced. Scanners are provided to animal control, humane shelters and other rescue organizations in an effort to ensure that every stray pet is scanned and those with chips are reunited with their owners. Veterinarians can also purchase scanners for use in their hospital.

Do Microchips Cause Cancer

There have been some reports of tumors caused by microchips in laboratory mice and rats. There is also a report of a dog that had a tumor removed that was next to the microchip however do definitive proof suggested it was from the microchip. The manufacturers of the microchips claim they are safe.

Should you microchip your pet? Absolutely Yes! Microchips are the best way of permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. At this point in time, we believe that they likelihood of a pet being lost and possibly euthanized because he cannot be identified is way higher than the chance of a tumor.

Microchip Database

Even if your pet has a microchip and is properly scanned, without an accessible database, this information will not return your pet to you. When contacted with the identification code of a missing pet, the database personnel can retrieve the pet’s information. Each microchip that is sold is registered to the veterinary hospital or shelter that purchased it. It is the responsibility of the veterinary hospital to record your pet’s unique microchip identification number in his record and notify the microchip database.

In addition, you can register your pet in your own name for faster notification when your lost pet has been found. There is a charge for this service. These microchip databases are usually available 24 hours a day and are even accessible via the Internet. But remember, the database, as with computers, is only as good as the data it contains. Annual confirmation of your pet’s microchip information is strongly recommended.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com