Inappropriate Elimination in Cats

By: Christian Yost

March 30, 2009

You love your cat and, until now, have enjoyed a perfect relationship with him. But suddenly he can’t seem to find his way to the litter box. Nothing can be quite so distressing for a cat owner as this pungent issue. And as tolerant as you may be, there’s probably a limit to the amount of time you can put up with living in a house that smells like a feline latrine.

Sad but true, inappropriate urination is responsible for the annual surrender of myriads of cats to shelters and pounds, a result that more often than not is the equivalent of a death sentence. So what causes cats to behave in this way? Why would they choose to foul their own nest, and what can be done about it?

Causes

Inappropriate elimination does not comprise of just one condition but rather a spectrum of conditions: some medical, some physiological (pertaining to normal biological functions), some to do with elimination preferences, and others related to anxiety and stress

.

It is important to find out what motivation underlies inappropriate urination in any particular case so that therapy can be properly directed.

Medical Causes

Cystitis and other bladder conditions

Medical conditions that cause increased thirst and urine formation, like certain kidney problems and diabetes.

Intestinal parasites, especially worms (contributing to inappropriate defecation problems only)

Hormonal Causes

Hormones are normally only a factor in the case of intact cats. Hormonally induced urine marking often begins around puberty (5 to 8 months of age), and will persist for life if unchecked. The way to deal with this problem is neutering. Not all cats stop urine marking following neutering, but most do – nine out of ten in fact – and those that continue may have other issues.

Although testosterone levels plummet after removal of male cats’ testicles, the behavioral “fix” is not immediate. A respectable reduction in spraying frequency may take a few months after neuter surgery. No one knows what causes this latency: It may simply be that old habits die hard.

Some intact females urine mark around the time of a heat period to signal their receptivity to passing males. Spaying a female will resolve this problem in 95 percent of cats and is recommended for medical and other behavioral reasons, too.

House Soiling Problems

Although technically all elimination problems are “house soiling problems,” this term tends to be reserved for simple litter box problems. This is a behavior problem in which the cat chooses not to use the litter box for any one of a variety of reasons, electing to use an alternative area for elimination of urine, feces, or both. Affected cats simply avoid shun the litter box and select a quiet, carpet-clad spot behind a chair or in the corner of a room instead.

There are many reasons why your cat may dislike his litter box:

Too few boxes

Inappropriately positioned boxes (damp cellar, high traffic area)

Inconvenient location (basement)

Hooded box (most cats dislike hoods)

Box too dirty (not scooped often enough)

Box too clean (cleaned with harsh smelling chemicals, such as bleach)

Liners (some cats are intimidated by plastic liners)

Plastic underlay (convenient for the owner but not always appreciated by the cat)

Wrong type of litter

Litter not deep enough

Animosity between cats in the house (competition/guarding of litter boxes)

Difficulty getting into/out of the box, especially inelderly, arthritic cats

Treatment

While inappropriate urination used to be a condition that veterinarians found extremely difficult to fix, clinical knowledge has increased to the point that no cat need lose his life as a result of now eminently treatable syndrome.

Medical problems should always be ruled out first before trying to control inappropriate elimination disorders and most can be addressed or contained. Have your veterinarian examine your cat and perform laboratory tests (usually a urine test, blood test and fecal exam) to establish the presence of any contributing medical problem. Obviously such conditions should be treated before proceeding further, but sometimes, even when the medical problem is under control, the elimination problem may persist because new habits have become established.

Anxiety-based problems are now treatable, thanks to modern medicines and a better understanding of the root cause of these problems. Drugs like buspirone (Buspar®) and fluoxetine (Prozac®) have revolutionized the treatment of anxiety-based inappropriate elimination problems.

Litterbox problems are a cinch to treat. Increasing the number of litter boxes to N + 1 (where N is the number of cat in the household), altering the location of litter boxes for the cat’s convenience, using scoopable litter, removal of hoods from hooded boxes, etc., will usually produce a dramatic turnaround, especially if done in conjunction with proper clean-up of previous “accidents” using a proprietary odor neutralizer (nothing less!).

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Antioxidants

• By: Christian Yost
• March 28, 2009
• Antioxidants are important, naturally occurring nutrients that help maintain health by slowing the destructive aging process of cellular molecules.

• Antioxidants can also be important in improving immune responses and vaccine recognition in dogs and cats. This may be especially critical for young animals that are being vaccinated while their immune system is still developing.

• Antioxidants can reverse decreases in immune-cell function for senior dogs and cats. A blend of several antioxidants in moderate amounts may be more effective than high levels of one antioxidant.

Antioxidants
Antioxidants are nutrients found naturally in the body and in plants such as fruits and vegetables. Common antioxidants include vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, and certain compounds called carotenoids (like lutein and beta-carotene).

How Antioxidants Work
As cells function normally in the body, they produce damaged molecules � called free radicals. These free radicals are highly unstable and steal components from other cellular molecules, such as fat, protein, or DNA, thereby spreading the damage.

This damage continues in a chain reaction, and entire cells soon become damaged and die. This process is called peroxidation. Peroxidation is useful because it helps the body destroy cells that have outlived their usefulness and kills germs and parasites. However, peroxidation, when left unchecked, also destroys or damages healthy cells.

Antioxidants help prevent widespread cellular destruction by willingly donating components to stabilize free radicals. More importantly, antioxidants return to the surface of the cell to stabilize rather than damage other cellular components.

When there are not enough antioxidants to hold peroxidation in check, free radicals begin damaging healthy cells which, in turn, can lead to problems. For example, free radical damage to immune cells can lead to an increased risk of infections.

Antioxidants and Immune Response
Because antioxidants play a key role in minimizing damage to cells, such as those that make up the immune system, recent research examined the benefits of certain antioxidants on the immune response of dogs and cats. The results of these studies indicated that antioxidants are important in helping dogs and cats maintain a healthy immune system.

The research also showed each antioxidant benefits the immune system uniquely, so one antioxidant at high levels is not as effective as a group of antioxidants acting together.

Antioxidant	Source	Function
Vitamin E	Plant oil extract, tocopherols	Optimizes immune system’s T-cell activation
Lutein	Marigold extract	Optimizes immune system’s B-cell activation and helps vaccine recognition by dogs and cats
Beta-carotene	Vitamin premix, corn meal, chicken-by-product meal, and chicken fat	Optimizes types of cell present in the blood, increases antibody levels in the blood, optimizes vaccine recognition by dogs.

Nutritionally supporting the immune system may be especially critical for young animals. In puppies, for example, the immune system is still developing at the time it is being challenged with vaccinations and exposure to disease-causing agents. With the addition of antioxidants, a high-quality puppy diet can aid in the development of a strong immune system to help maintain good health and protect against viruses, bacteria, and parasites.

Please visit us at www. siamese-cattailscattery.com

Preventing Illness and Injury in Cats

When it comes to giving unconditional love, pet owners know their pets win hands down. In return, we offer them companionship along with food, shelter and safety. For their own good, we must also keep our pets free from illness or injury.

This article provides an overview of how to keep your pet happy and healthy. For more detailed information, use the search engine to find the appropriate articles on specific topics.

Contagious Diseases

The best and easiest way to prevent a variety of common and contagious diseases is to have your pet vaccinated within their first few months of life. Periodic boosters and regularly scheduled checkups will further reduce the chance of contracting many diseases.

Parasites

Regular checkups should include periodic fecal examinations to detect any intestinal . If any are found, your veterinarian will help deworm your pet and keep him worm-free.

Your veterinarian can also help prevent heartworm, which can affect both dogs and cats. Adult worms live in lung arteries and the chambers of the heart, which can damage the heart muscle and lungs, interfering with their function. Routine administration of preventative medication can prevent infection.

Fleas and ticks, the bane of animals since the beginning of time, can also be prevented with appropriate insecticides routinely administered to your pet.

Nutritional Disorders

Feeding a good quality pet food can prevent many nutritional  disorders. Table scraps should be avoided, no matter how cute your cat acts. Regular exercise and play will help reduce the chance of obesity and associated disorders. As your pet gets older, you should talk with your veterinarian about how to adjust his  diet

to match a slowing metabolism.

Reproductive Disorders

Almost all reproductive disorders, including some types of cancer, can be avoided with early spaying or neutering. This can also reduce the chance of your pet developing certain behavioral disorders. All uterine, ovarian and testicular diseases will be prevented if these organs are no longer present.

Toxicity

Preventing toxicities is easily done if you make certain that all potentially toxic items are safely and securely stored away from your pet. Do not allow your cat to roam outdoors. This will prevent ingestion of many different toxic substances found in the environment.

Trauma

Accidents do happen, so no matter how well you take care of your pet, you may still need a trip to the veterinarian. But you can greatly reduce the chances of an accident with one simple action.

Keeping your cat indoors can greatly impact her health and life span. Indoors, she has very little chance of being attacked by a stray animal (which can give her fatal diseases such as feline AIDS, in addition to injuries), or being hit by a car, eating something poisonous, etc.

Besides keeping them safe from physical hazards like other animals or vehicles, your pets will not be in danger of being picked up by a municipal animal officer. Thousands of pets are euthanized each year at shelters because they have gotten lost and had no identification showing they belonged to someone. Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Keeping Your Cat out of the Sandbox or Garden

Keeping Your Cat out of the Sandbox or Garden

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

In the summer, children love to spend time in the sandbox. Many adults enjoy the peace and tranquility of gardening. If your household includes a cat that also enjoys time outside, a sandbox or garden is often considered an attractive outdoor litterbox. Your cat’s natural preferences for elimination includes soft sand- or soil-type material so the attraction to these areas can be annoying or even hazardous to your health. Fortunately, there are methods that can be used to discourage this unwanted behavior.

Sandbox Covers

The most effective way to discourage your cat from using your child’s sandbox is to prevent access to it by covering it when not in use. A hard plastic cover available a local hardware stores does an excellent job. It has the extra advantage of protecting the area from rain and keeping young children from playing while unsupervised. These covers can be secured and are easy to clean.

On the downside, they can require more space to store. An alternative is to use a tarp, which is flexible and requires little space but may need to be secured around the edges to keep it from accumulating rainwater or blowing away.

For the do-it-yourself homeowner, a custom top can be constructed using lengths of PVC pipe. Make a frame slightly larger than the perimeter of the box. Cut a length of hardware cloth and attach in to the pipe with wire or staples. Eliminate all sharp edges. Cover the top with canvas fabric so the wire is not exposed. If your play area is a shape other than rectangular, PVC pipe is a flexible version of PVC and can be bent into curves and circles. Using large whole hardware cloth or chicken wire is not recommended because of the danger of your pet and children becoming entangled.

Spray Repellants

For both sandboxes and gardens, there are a variety of commercial sprays designed as animal deterrents. They contain preparations that are offensive, but not harmful, to cats. Applying these sprays around the box or garden border when it is first installed in the spring is often helpful. Rain and sunlight will decrease their effectiveness so they have to be reapplied regularly on a calm day to discourage drifting. A homemade preparation of garlic and onion works too. In a blender, add 2 cloves of garlic and 1 small chopped onion to 2 cups of hot water. Blend thoroughly. Strain the pulp through a cheesecloth or strainer and discard or add to the compost pile. Use the liquid in a garden sprayer around the perimeter of the sandbox or garden. Let it dry before children and pets have access.

Other Ideas

Some people have tried placing a thin layer of decorative rocks or stones over the soil to make the garden unattractive to cats. Unfortunately, this method is limited to the type of plants in your garden.

Some gardeners have tried mixing mothballs into the soil. The odor of the mothballs is a deterrent to some cats. You must be careful when using mothballs since overexposure can cause illness in your cat.

Given Their Own, They’ll Leave Yours Alone

If the above suggestion still aren’t deterring you determined feline, how about considering a space in the yard/garden that only your cat will enjoy? A small space with cat-attractive plants could be established in a quiet corner of the yard away from children’s activities. Common choices for plants would include catnip and catmint. Both are easy to grow, and provide attractive foliage for the yard. Take an extra litter pan and dig it into the soil so its surface is flush with the ground. Add a little sand and a handful of dirt. Since cats prefer privacy for their eliminations, a quiet hidden spot such as this may do the trick. It will, however, need to be cleaned like any other cat box. One word of caution, both catmint and catnip produce beautiful fragrant flowers that are attractive to bees. To prevent your cat from being stung, remove the flower stalks before they open with a gentle pinch. Don’t forget to dry some catnip for your cat as an extra treat!

If your cat does persist in soiling the sandbox or garden, it is a good idea to check for feces before children get into the sandbox or you start working in the garden. Cats can shed parasites in their feces that are harmful. The sand in the box may also need to be replaced on a regular basis, although replacing dirt is not practical. And all people playing in the sandbox or working in the garden should wash their hands when they are finished.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Can Cats Get Heartworm Disease?

Can Cats Get Heartworm Disease?

By: Christian Yost

March 23, 2009

Mosquito season is almost here. Can your in door cat– the one that never goes out – be at risk for heartworm disease? Heartworm disease is a parasitic disease that involves a long thin worm that lives in the blood vessels and heart of infected pets. It is transmitted by mosquitoes and can infect both dogs and cats.

Cats that are indoors may actually be at higher risk than cats that go out. In fact, up to 33 percent of reported cases are in cats who are described by their owners as “strictly indoors.” Males are a bit more likely than females to be affected. Age is not a risk factor; cats of any age can be affected, with cats as young as 1 and as old as 17 having been diagnosed.

Heartworms are present (endemic) in most parts of the United States and in many parts of North America. Mosquitoes are the key – without them the disease cannot spread.

The highest rate of infections is found in subtropical climates like those of the southeastern United States, the Gulf States, and Hawaii.

However, heartworms are also found throughout the central and eastern United States, particularly near oceans, lakes and rivers. When compared to dogs, cats are naturally resistant to heartworms (estimated at about one-fifth as likely to become seriously infected as dogs in the same region); however, heartworm disease in cats is often more severe than in dogs.

Prevention

Prevention of heartworm disease is simple. “Preventatives” kill microscopic larvae that are left behind by mosquitoes when they bite a cat. In most cases, a once-monthly pill (Interceptor® brand of milbemycin for cats or Heartgard® brand of ivermectin for cats) is effective in preventing heartworms from taking hold. A recently available preventative for heartworms, Revolution® brand of selamectin, is applied to the skin once monthly. Revolution can also control fleas. Both Heartgard® for cats and Revolution® also help to prevent intestinal parasites.

Recommendations

Owners of all cats living in areas endemic for heartworms should discuss the pros and cons of preventative care with their veternarian. If dogs in the area receive heartworm prevention, it is likely that cats also may benefit from this protection. Interceptor® for cats, Heartgard® for cats and Revolution® for cats are safe and effective products. Do NOT use your canine heartworm medicine in your cat. The drug dosing is very different between species. Speak to your veterinarian about the need for preventative therapy, administration guidelines and when to start and stop prevention treatments.

Heartworm disease in cats can have a wide range of symptoms, with some cats being completely asymptomatic (no symptoms at all). Others may show vague, generalized clinical symptoms. A small percentage, however, may show severe life threatening symptoms.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Flea Control and Prevention in Cats

Flea Control and Prevention in Cats

By: Christian Yost

March 23, 2009

For millions of pets and people, the tiny flea is a remorseless enemy. The flea is a small, brown, wingless insect that uses specialized mouth parts to pierce the skin and siphon blood.

When a flea bites your cat, it injects a small amount of saliva into the skin to prevent blood coagulation. Some animals may have fleas without showing discomfort, but an unfortunate number of cats become sensitized to this saliva. In highly allergic animals, the bite of a single flea can cause severe itching and scratching. Fleas cause the most common skin disease of cats – flea allergy dermatitis.

If your pet develops hypersensitivity to flea saliva, several changes may result:

A small hive may develop at the site of the fleabite, which either heals or develops into a tiny red bump that eventually crusts over.

The cat may scratch and chew at herself until the area is hairless, raw and weeping serum (“hot spots”).

This can cause hair loss, redness, scaling, bacterial infection and increased pigmentation of the skin.The distribution often involves the lower back, base of the tail, toward the back, the abdomen, flanks and neck. It may become quite generalized in the severe case, leading to total body involvement.

Remember that the flea spends the majority of its life in the environment, not on your pet, so it may be difficult to find. In fact, your cat may continue to scratch without you ever seeing a flea on her. Check your cat carefully for fleas or for signs of flea excrement (also called flea dirt), which looks like coarsely ground pepper. When moistened, flea dirt turns a reddish brown because it contains blood. If one cat in the house has fleas, assume that all pets in the household have fleas. A single flea found on your pet means that there are probably hundreds of fleas, larva, pupa and eggs in your house.

If you see tapeworm segments in your cat’s stool, he may have had fleas at one time or may still have them. The flea can act as an intermediate host of the tapeworm, Dipylidium caninum. Through grooming or biting, the animal ingests an adult flea containing tapeworm eggs. Once released, the tapeworm grows to maturity in the small intestine. The cycle can take less than a month, so a key to tapeworm prevention is flea control.

The Life Cycle of the Flea

The flea’s life cycle has four stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The adult flea uses your cat as a place to take its blood meals and breed. Fleas either lay eggs directly on the cat where they may drop off, or deposit eggs into the immediate surroundings (your home or backyard). Because the female may lay several hundred eggs during the course of its life, the number of fleas present intensifies the problem. The eggs hatch into larvae that live in carpeting, cracks or corners of the cat’s living area. The larvae survive by ingesting dried blood, animal dander and other organic matter. To complete the life cycle, larvae develop into pupae that hatch into adults. The immediate source of adult fleas within the house is the pupa, not the cat. The adult flea emerges from the pupa and then hops onto the host.

This development occurs more quickly in a warm, humid environment. Pupae can lie dormant for months, but under temperate conditions fleas complete their life cycle in about three weeks. The inside of your home may provide a warm environment to allow fleas to thrive year round.

Fighting the Flea

Types of commercial products available for flea control include flea collars, shampoos, sprays, powders and dips. Other, newer, products include oral and systemic spot-on insecticides.

In the past, topical insecticide sprays, powders and dips were the most popular. However, the effect was often temporary. Battling infestations requires attacking areas where the eggs, larvae, pupae and adults all congregate. Because some stages of a flea’s life can persist for months, chemicals with residual action are needed and should be repeated periodically. Sprays or foggers, which require leaving the house for several hours, should be used twice in 2-week intervals and then every two months during the flea season.

Treating animals and their living areas thoroughly and at the same time is vital; otherwise some fleas will survive and re-infest your pet. You may even need to treat your yard or kennel with an insecticide, if the infestation is severe enough.

The vacuum cleaner can be a real aid in removing flea eggs and immature forms. Give special attention to cracks and corners. At the end of vacuuming, either vacuum up some flea powder into your vacuum bag, or throw the bag out. Otherwise, the cleaner will only serve as an incubator, releasing more fleas into the environment as they hatch. In some cases, you may want to obtain the services of a licensed pest control company. These professionals have access to a variety of insecticides and they know what combinations work best in your area.

Treatment & Prevention

As one might expect, flea control through these methods is very time consuming, expensive and difficult. The good news is that currently, with the newer flea products on the market, flea control is much safer, more effective and environmentally friendly. Current flea control efforts center on oral and topical systemic treatments. These products not only treat existing flea problems, they also are very useful for prevention. In fact, prevention is the most effective and easiest method of flea control.

One group of products works to control fleas by interrupting their development by killing flea larva and eggs. These drugs are called insect growth regulators (IGRs). These products do not kill adult fleas, but they dramatically decrease the flea population by arresting their development. One common oral product used is lufenuron (Program®). Lufenuron is also available as an injection that lasts 6 months. Methoprene and pyriproxifen (Nylar®) are also very effective IGRs that are available as sprays or collars.

Other products kill the actual flea (adulticides) and work quite rapidly. These include both spot-on and oral products. Spot-on products are usually applied on your pet’s skin between the shoulders. The medication is absorbed into your pet’s skin and distributed throughout the body. Fleas are killed rapidly on contact with the skin. Spot-on products include fipronil (Frontline®), Metaflumizone (ProMeris®), imidacloprid (Advantage®) and selamectin (Revolution®).

A recently developed oral adulticide is nitenpyram (Capstar®), that when given begins to kill fleas in 30 minutes.All these products are safer, easier to use and, if used correctly, the most effective method of flea control. Additionally, some have the added benefit of efficacy against other parasites. Some  veternarians are even recommending a combination of an adulticide and insect growth regulator (Frontline Plus®) as a more complete method of flea control.

With all these choices it is best to consult your veterinarian as to the best flea control and prevention for your pet. The choice of flea control should depend on your pet’s life-style and potential for exposure. Through faithful use of these systemic monthly flea products, the total flea burden on your pet and in the immediate environment can be dramatically reduced. Keeping your pet on monthly flea treatments, especially in areas of high flea risk, is an excellent preventive method of flea control. These products often eliminate the need for routine home insecticidal use, especially in the long run. Although it may still be prudent in heavy flea environments to treat the premises initially, the advent of these newer systemic flea products has dramatically simplified flea control.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Chronic Vomiting in Cats

Chronic Vomiting in Cats

By: Christian Yost

March 22, 2009

Vomiting is the forceful ejection through the mouth of the contents of the stomach. Occasionally material from the duodenum of the small intestine also accompanies the stomach (gastric) contents. Chronic vomiting is characterized by persistent or recurrent vomiting for more than two weeks.

An occasional bout of vomiting may cause no alarm to the owner; however, persistent, chronic vomiting is usually indicative of an underlying disease. Chronic vomiting often leads to decreased absorption of nutrients and subsequent weight loss. Diarrhea may also accompany the vomiting.

General Causes

Dietary indiscretion (eating inappropriate food/material)

Dietary intolerance

Infectious agents, such as bacteria, fungi, and parasites

Drugs and certain toxins

Obstruction/blockage of the stomach or intestinal tract

Metabolic diseases such as liver and kidney

disease, hyperthyroidism

Abdominal disorders such as pancreatitis, abdominal tumors and adhesions, etc.

Motility disorders of the gastrointestinal tract that prevent the posterior movement of food

Inflammatory bowel diseases

Miscellaneous conditions such as gastric/duodenal ulcers,constipation etc.

Cancer of the gastrointestinal tractWhat to Watch For

Intermittent vomiting

Variable appetite

Weight Loss

Lethargy

Diarrhea

Increased thirst

Presence of blood in the vomitus or stoolDiagnosis

Obtaining a thorough medical history with details on the timing and material vomited is very important. A thorough physical examination is performed, including careful palpation (examining by hand) of the abdomen. Additional diagnostic tests may include:

Complete blood count (CBC)

Urinalysis

Biochemical profile

Chest and abdominal radiographs (X-rays)

Multiple fecal examinationsTreatment

Chronic vomiting is difficult to treat symptomatically, because effective treatment usually depends on the underlying cause. There are several steps your veterinarian might recommend, however, while diagnostic testing is underway. The goals of symptomatic therapy are to initially rest the gastrointestinal tract and then introduce easily digested materials. Symptomatic treatments include:

Withhold all food for 12 – 24 hours, then gradually introduce a bland diet.

A trial of a hypoallergenic diet may be started, for a minimum of six weeks, if dietary hypersensitivity is suspected.

Antiemetic drugs that symptomatically decrease the frequency of vomiting may be tried.

Antacids (drugs that block acid production by the stomach) may also be administered.

Gastric protectants, which are drugs that coat and sooth the GI tract, may also be considered.Home Care

Administer only the prescribed medications and diet recommended by your veterinarian. Observe your pet very closely. If clinical signs are not improving, and/or your pet is getting worse, have your pet evaluated at once.

Vomiting is often preceded by restlessness, salivation, and retching, and requires forceful abdominal contractions to expel the stomach contents. One must differentiate acute from chronic vomiting. One must also differentiate vomiting from regurgitation, which is the effortless evacuation of fluid, food, or mucus from the esophagus. The causes, diagnostic tests, and treatments for regurgitation are quite different from those for chronic vomiting.

Chronic vomiting generally does not respond to symptomatic therapy, and most often necessitates a full diagnostic work-up to determine the underlying cause. If the patient continues vomiting despite being kept off food, if the vomiting is recurrent, and/or if blood is present in the vomitus, your veterinarian should examine the animal. In addition, if your pet appears to be in distress, seems painful, lethargic, or sick in any other way, you should contact your veterinarian at once.Chronic vomiting can be caused by diseases of the gastrointestinal tract or can occur secondary to other systemic diseases. It is important to try to establish the cause of chronic vomiting. If the underlying cause is not removed or treated, it is unlikely the vomiting will resolve.

Chronic, recurrent dietary indiscretion can include eating spoiled food, overeating, ingesting foreign material, and sudden dietary changes.

Dietary intolerance is a reaction to some normal food component. It is most often a response to a particular protein, but can be associated with lactose, diets high in fat, and certain food additives.

Bacterial causes of chronic vomiting include Salmonella and Helicobacter.

Fungal causes of chronic vomiting include histoplasmosis, aspergillosis and phycomycosis

Parasitic causes of chronic vomiting include roundworms, hookworms, and Giardia.

Administration of certain drugs and/or exposure to toxins can cause chronic vomiting by directly irritating the lining of the gastrointestinal tract. Examples include nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, corticosteroids, certain antibiotics, insecticides, heavy metals, and lawn and garden products, etc.

Slowly developing obstruction or blockage of the gastrointestinal tract may cause chronic vomiting. Obstruction may be secondary to foreign bodies, tumors, intussusceptions (telescoping of the bowel into itself), parasites, and other structural abnormalities.

Metabolic diseases, such as kidney and liver diseases, uncontrolled diabetes  mellitus and hyperthyroidism may cause vomiting, although it is more common for these diseases to cause acute episodes of vomiting.

Some abdominal disorders may result in chronic vomiting. Examples include chronic pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas), kidney infections, tumors in other abdominal organs, adhesions of the abdominal organs, etc.

Motility disorders of the stomach and small intestines are an important cause of chronic vomiting. With these diseases food does not leave the stomach and intestines as it normally does and builds up in the stomach where it induces vomiting.

Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) is an inflammation of the walls of the gastrointestinal tract, and may be an immune disorder in some animals. Chronic vomiting with IBD may be accompanied by diarrhea, weight loss and a change in appetite.

Certain maldigestion and malabsorption problems, such as lymphangiectasia cause chronic vomiting, diarrhea, and weight loss.

Gastrointestinal ulcers associated with intestinal diseases and tumors, liver disease, and kidney disease may result in chronic vomiting, but such ulcers are uncommon.

Constipation is infrequent, incomplete, or difficult defecation with the passage of hard, dry feces. Vomiting may occur secondary to constipation.

Slow growing tumors of the gastrointestinal tract may produce intermittent vomiting that tends to get worse with time.

Obtaining a complete medical history, and performing a thorough physical examination are necessary in order to create an appropriate diagnostic plan for the vomiting patient.

A complete blood count (CBC) evaluates the presence of infection, inflammation, anemia, etc.

A biochemical profile evaluates kidney, liver, and pancreas function, as well as electrolyte, protein, andblood sugar levels.

A urinalysis helps evaluate the kidneys and hydration status of the patient.

Multiple fecal examinations are important to rule out gastrointestinal parasites as a cause of vomiting.

Abdominal radiographs (X-rays) evaluate the abdominal organs, and may detect the presence of fluid, a foreign body, tumor or structural abnormality.

Chest X-rays are an important part of the diagnostic work up if cancer is suspected, in order to look for metastasis (spread) to the lungs.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com