Archive for the ‘Poisionus Plants’ Category

Easter Lilies – Not Just a Pretty Flower?

April 9, 2009

By: Christian Yost

April 1, 2009

The Easter lily is as common in many spring homes as chocolate bunnies and jelly beans. But did you know this popular flower is toxic to your cat? In fact, other members of the lily family have been found to be toxic, including the day lily and the tiger lily (although there’s no need to worry about the non-toxic calla lily, peace lily, or glory lily). Eating just one leaf of a toxic lily can result in severe poisoning, and within a short time your cat will exhibit signs of toxicity.

Signs and Symptoms

The primary toxic effects are on the kidneys. Within minutes to hours of ingesting part of the lily plant, your cat might stop eating and begin vomiting. As the toxin begins to affect the kidneys, the cat will become lethargic. Finally, he will experience kidney failure and death will generally occur within five days.

Once you suspect your cat has eaten part of a lily plant, it is important that you contact your veterinarian immediately. If treatment is started early, chances are your cat will recover, but once the kidneys have been severely affected, your cat may not survive.

Diagnosis and Treatment

Diagnosing lily toxicity is generally based on a history of exposure to the plant and signs of vomiting and dehydration. Your veterinarian will probably do some preliminary blood tests to determine if any kidney damage has occurred, and repeat them once treatment has been started to determine if treatment is effective.

The treatment generally consists of hospitalization and intravenous fluids. Your veterinarian may also give your cat medication to control nausea and vomiting. Home care will not result in full recovery.

Prevention

Obviously, the best prevention of lily toxicity is to keep lily plants away from your cat. If you bring lilies into the house, you may have to keep them in a separate room where your nibbling cat cannot enter. Better still, consider choosing other springtime flowers instead, like impatiens or gardenias, and leave the lilies outside.

Please visit us at  www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Getting a Cat? Stock Up Now

March 30, 2009

By: Christian Yost

March 29, 2009

You went to the shelter and fell in love with a kitten. Or maybe it was a stray cat that claimed you for her own. However you came across your new family member, it is time to stock up on kitty supplies.

If your kitten was a stray, you should first have your veterinarian check her out for feline lukemia, feline AIDS and other diseases, especially if you already have cats in the home. (If you adopt from a shelter, these tests may be done as a matter of course.)

Before bringing her home, scout your neighborhood for the best and most convenient pet supply store, and learn the store’s hours. It’s wise to get your shopping done before you bring your cat home. There are few differences in what you need for a kitten versus an adult cat, but most of the items are the same. An approved cat carrier. You will need this to bring her home from the shelter and for trips to your veterinarian.

Make sure the carrier is large enough to allow her to stretch.

  • Bowls for food and water. Choose metal. Besides being more sturdy, metal is easier to clean and does not break like glass or ceramic. Avoid plastic – it will fray when chewed and is not as sanitary as metal.
  • A bed and accessories. If your cat isn’t going to cuddle up next to you at night, you’ll want to buy a washable plastic bed padded with washable towels  or blankets. For comfort, give your kitten a tee shirt or old bathrobe that has your scent on it. Even if she does sleep with you, she may use the bed for her frequent power naps.

  • Litter box. There are many varieties to choose from, but any box should have a lip to prevent litter from scattering on the floor. Your cat should be able to get in and out easily, as well as turn around.
  • Soft collar and ID tags. You may want to consider having your veterinarian implant a microchip with your information on it, even if she’s an indoor cat. In a flash, a cat can dart out an open door. If you use ID tags, you may want to include a note that says, “If I’m outside, I’m lost.”
  • Leash and harness. Many cats are loathe to accept walking on a leash. If you start them early enough on it, however, you may be able to persuade them otherwise. Make sure you supervise your cat at all times and prohibit exposure to unknown outside cats that may carry infectious diseases.
  • Scratching post. This is imperative for your furniture and sanity. No matter how many cats you have, keep one extra in your home. (In other words, if you have three cats, buy four posts.)
  • Safe toys. A mouse with catnip inside it and balls large enough to prevent her from swallowing are good toys. Paddleballs make excellent toys because the rubber string makes the ball act unpredictably when batted. Only let her play with it while supervised, however. In fact, beware of all stringed toys. Your cat can swallow a broken string, which will cause intestinal problems.
  • Check the labels and look for quality in toys, just as you would when buying for children. Be sure that parts won’t break off. Buttons, plastic shards and small balls can lodge in her throat and block air passages.
  • Grooming tools. Find a groomer who meets your needs. He can advise you on which tools are best for grooming your particular breed of cat. You will need a cat brush and nail trimmers.
  • Flea comb. Start off right to make sure she’s free of fleas. Combing is good for the skin as well.
  • Pet specific household cleaning products
    For the Kitten

    Your kitten is like a child – she will roam and explore without worrying about her safety. Always kitten proof your home by putting dangerous items, like chemicals, safely out of reach. Don’t forget that some plants are toxic as well, and that she will try to climb and jump from areas that an older cat may think better of.

  • Kitten food. Ask your breeder or shelter what brand your kitten is used to eating. Changing her diet abruptly may cause stomach distress. If you want to change foods, phase them in by mixing them with her old brand for several weeks.
  • Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com
  • Top 10 Kitty Care Tips

    March 28, 2009

    By: Christian Yost

    March 28, 2009

    These practical dos and don’ts are just what you need before you welcome that furry new friend into your family!

    Some people own their cats; some cats own their owners. Either way, all cat-lovers agree that welcoming a kitten or cat into the house is a wonderful adventure! To make it more enjoyable, learn these kitty-care basics first with these 10 kitten care tips.

    What to Do
    The transition to a new home can be confusing and frightening for your kitten, so make sure he feels loved and protected. The following tips may help make those first exciting days easier:

    1. Consider adopting a kitten or full-grown cat from your local animal shelter. Many wonderful animals are available through no fault of their own, often because their owners died or moved from the area.

    2. Feed high-quality nutrition. Quality nutrition is essential to good health. Help your kitten live a long and healthy life by feeding quality food designed just for him.

    3. Prepare for his arrival. Purchase all the food and supplies you need before you bring home your new pet. The basics should include shallow feeding bowls, a collar and I.D. tag, litter box and premium litter, brush, metal comb, grooming mitt, nail clippers, bed, scratching post and toys.

    4. Kitty-proof your home. Cats are natural-born explorers, so be sure to thoroughly kitty-proof his new surroundings. Make sure plants, especially those toxic to cats, are out of his reach. Also, don’t let him near medicines, strings, cleaning products or standing water (like bathtubs and toilets).

    5. Introduce your family slowly. Your new kitten should meet family members one at a time. If kitty seems frightened at first, keep him confined to one room for a few days until he adjusts.

    6. Provide regular veterinarian visits. To make sure your new kitten is in tip-top shape, take him for a veterinary visit when he’s eight weeks old. I stress that this initial exam is very important. “Not only will kitty get a thorough checkup,”the first visit also helps us to detect abnormalities such as eye problems, malformations, tooth and gum problems or heart murmurs.”Yearly checkups are crucial to a cat�s well being.

    7. Groom your kitten often. To keep kitty looking and feeling her best, start basic grooming early, preferably on the day you bring her home, so she gets used to you handling her regularly.

    • Brush and comb her fur weekly to help control mats and hairballs.
    • Brush her teeth twice a week to prevent tartar buildup, which can lead to other health problems. Be sure to use a toothpaste made for cats and not humans.
    • Trim her claws once a week with cat clippers, carefully avoiding the sensitive base of the nail.
    • Wipe her eyes and the insides of her ears with a damp cloth or cotton ball, looking for any excess grime, which could indicate illness.

    8. Play with her daily. An active lifestyle that includes daily exercise, like playing, will help keep your cat trim and healthy. Throw balls, toy mice and balled-up pieces of paper for her to chase, or dangle “teaser” toys to keep her active.

    9. Bathe your kitten. Occasional bathing of your cat will keep her smelling great and keep dander under control, which may help alleviate any allergic reactions. Make sure you use a cat shampoo and rinse thoroughly, because shampoo left behind will cause your cat to froth when she licks herself.

    10. Never feed her human food. Avoid giving your kitten “people food”, such as cow’s milk, tuna and chocolate, which can lead to digestive upset or serious illness. Adding human food treats to your kitten’s diet may cause her to gain too much weight. Now that you’ve got the basics covered with these kitten care tips, you’re ready to welcome that special new family member into your life.

    Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

    Acute Renal (Kidney) Failure in Cats

    March 27, 2009

    By: Christian Yost

    March 27, 2009

    Acute kidney failure (acute renal failure or ARF) is characterized by an abrupt decline in kidney function that leads to changes in the chemistry of the body including alterations in fluid and mineral balance. The changes that arise as a result of ARF affect almost every body system.

    The kidneys filter blood, remove the waste products of metabolism and eliminate them in the urine. The kidneys also regulate the volume and composition of body fluids (including mineral concentrations and acid base balance), and produce hormones that stimulate the production of red blood cells (erythropoietin) and regulate calcium balance (calcitriol).

    Acute kidney failure can be caused by toxic injury to the kidneys, decreased blood flow and oxygen delivery to the kidneys, infections, obstruction of the kidneys and prevention of urine elimination caused by a ruptured bladder.

    The recent recognition of kidney failure is not necessarily the same as acute renal failure, since some animals with chronic kidney failure tolerate it for some time before symptoms are apparent.

    There is no specific breed predilection but older animals are thought to be at greater risk for acute kidney failure. Acute kidney failure is more common in the fall and winter due to pet exposure to anti-freeze which contains ethylene glycol. Cats that are allowed to roam outside without supervision potentially have increased exposure to ethylene glycol.

    The symptoms of ARF, although often severe, are not specific. Even with intensive management, ARF is a very serious disorder and often is fatal.

    What to Watch For

  • Disorientation
  • Incoordination
  • Decreased urine production
  • Straining to urinate
  • Loss of appetite
  • Lethargy
  • Vomiting
  • Weakness
  • Changes in water consumption and urination

    Diagnosis

    Your veterinarian will take a complete medical history specifically questioning exposure to ethylene glycol (anti-freeze), recent surgery or anesthesia (possibly causing decreased blood flow to the kidneys), exposure to drugs toxic to the kidneys (aminoglycoside group of antibiotics and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) and previous illnesses. The following diagnostic tests may also be necessary to recognize acute kidney failure and exclude other diseases. Tests may include:

  • Complete physical examination
  • Serum biochemistry tests
  • Urinalysis
  • Complete blood count
  • X-rays of the abdomen
  • Culture of the urine
  • Ultrasound examination
  • Kidney biopsy
  • Ethylene glycol test
  • Blood tests for certain infections

    Treatment

    ARF is a life-threatening serious condition that requires hospitalization and intensive treatment. Treatment consists of identification and correction of life-threatening problems while searching for the underlying cause of ARF. Treatment for ARF may include one or more of the following:

  • Induce vomiting
  • Intravenous fluids
  • Drugs that encourage urine production
  • Management of blood electrolyte abnormalities
  • Monitor urinary output
  • Control of vomiting
  • Management of anemia
  • Peritoneal dialysis or hemodialysis
  • Treatment with 4-methylpyrazole (Antizol®) or ethanol

    Home Care

    Acute renal failure is a life-threatening condition and there is no effective home treatment. If you suspect your pet has this condition, or if you even suspect your pet may have consumed even a small amount of anti-freeze, you should call your veterinarian immediately. Your veterinarian may instruct you to induce vomiting before bringing your pet to the hospital.

    Administer any medications prescribed by your veterinarian. Follow-up examinations and laboratory tests are important to assess your pet’s response to treatment. Allow free access to fresh clean water.

    Preventative Care

    Avoid exposure to ethylene glycol (anti-freeze), and avoid exposure to drugs known to be toxic to the kidney (e.g. aminoglycoside antibiotics and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs). Don’t allow cats to roam outside unattended.

  • Acute renal failure (ARF) is a life-threatening disorder that can affect cats of any age.

    Acute renal failure may be caused by decreased blood flow to the kidneys (called ischemia) or exposure to certain drugs or chemicals that are toxic to the kidneys.

  • Low blood flow to the kidneys may occur during anesthesia and surgery, and some drugs such as the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents like ibuprofen may also cause ARF by reducing blood flow to certain parts of the kidneys. Other causes of reduced blood flow to the kidneys include severe dehydration, shock, poor heart function, heat stroke and overwhelming infection (sepsis).
  • Many toxins can damage the kidneys and lead to ARF. Probably most important is ethylene glycol, which is the active ingredient of anti-freeze. Some antibiotics, especially a class of injectable antibiotics known as aminoglycosides, can cause damage to the tubules of the kidney and ARF.
  • High blood calcium concentration likewise can damage the kidneys. Heavy metals (e.g. lead, arsenic), contrast dyes used for certain X-ray procedures, and some anesthetics also can damage the kidneys. An important toxin that specifically affects the kidneys of cats is the Easter Lily. Cats should never be allowed access to this group of plants. Some older drugs used to treat heartworms (thiacetarsamide) and fungal infections (amphotericin B) also are toxic to the kidneys.
  • Acute bacterial infection of the kidneys (called pyelonephritis) also can produce ARF.
  • Rare causes of ARF include glomerulonephritis (acute inflammation of the microscopic filtering devices of the kidney called glomeruli), glomerular amyloidosis (deposition of an insoluble type of protein in the kidney), disseminated intravascular coagulation (a body-wide clotting disorder), obstruction by blood clots of the arteries going to the kidneys, and hemolytic-uremic syndrome (liver and kidney failure caused by a specific strain of the bacteria E. coli).
  • Urinary obstruction is a type of reversible ARF that is treated by relieving the obstruction.

    The most common causes of death during treatment of ARF are high blood potassium concentration, acid-base disturbances, very high concentrations of waste products in the blood that do not improve with fluid therapy and excessive administration of fluids with fluid accumulation in the lungs.

    Animals unable to produce urine despite medical treatment have little chance for survival without peritoneal dialysis (infusion and removal of fluid into the abdominal cavity to remove waste products from the body). Hemodialysis can be performed in animals but is only available at selected referral hospitals and is very costly.

    The prognosis for recovery of kidney function in ARF depends on the severity of the kidney damage, the underlying cause of ARF and supportive treatment.

    Other medical problems can lead to symptoms similar to those encountered in ARF. A thorough medical evaluation is needed to diagnose ARF including laboratory testing and diagnostic imaging (X-rays or ultrasound). Warning signs that owners may see in pets with ARF include complete loss of appetite, marked lethargy, and vomiting. Unfortunately, these symptoms are very non-specific and may be caused by many other disease conditions. If is important to consult your veterinarian promptly.

  • Veterniary care should include diagnostic tests of kidney function, including blood tests and urinalysis, and subsequent treatment recommendations.

    Diagnosis

    Diagnostic tests may be needed to recognize ARF and to exclude other diseases. Tests may include:

  • A complete medical history and physical examination
  • A complete blood count (CBC) to evaluate for signs of infection, inflammation, anemia or clotting abnormalities
  • Blood biochemistry tests to identify the presence of kidney failure. Commonly used tests to identify kidney failure include blood urea nitrogen (BUN), serum creatinine, and serum phosphorus. These test results are abnormally high in patients with kidney failure but these tests alone do not identify whether the kidney failure is acute or chronic. The veterinarian must use other tests and diagnostic reasoning to determine if the kidney failure is acute or chronic.
  • Urinalysis. Protein, blood or glucose may be observed in the urine of patients with ARF. The presence of microscopic crystals (such as calcium oxalate) can support a diagnosis of ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) poisoning. Microscopic casts of the kidney tubules often are seen with acute injury of the kidney, and white blood cells or casts may be found when kidney infection is present.

    Additional diagnostic tests may be recommended for individual pets, including:

  • Kidney ultrasonography to determine if the kidney failure is acute or chronic and to help identify some specific causes of ARF (e.g. anti-freeze poisoning). Kidneys of patients with ARF typically are normal-sized to large. The presence of small, irregularly-shaped kidneys more often suggests a chronic kidney disease. Cats that drink anti-freeze often have kidneys that have increased density on  within a few hours of consuming anti-freeze.
  • A urine culture to identify urinary tract infection
  • Blood gas analysis to identify acid-base disturbances
  • Arterial blood pressure should be monitored because high blood pressure can complicate ARF. Central venous pressure may be monitored with a catheter in the jugular vein, especially if an inadequate volume of urine is produced.
  • Ethylene glycol testing to diagnose this toxicity; a special test kit is required for this purpose.
  • Kidney biopsy may be necessary to determine the cause of ARF and to guide treatment and prognosis.

    Therapy

    Treatments for ARF may include one or more of the following:

  • Treatment of ARF must be individualized based on the cause and severity of the condition, as well as other conditions and complications identified by your veterinarian. Of great importance is the ability of the pet to produce urine. Low urine output or complete absence of urine production is a very serious finding.
  • Prognostic signs are poor if the pet does not respond to initial drug and fluid therapy. The ultimate goal of ARF management is to provide supportive care while allowing the kidneys time to recover. Your veterinarian should identify and correct the most life-threatening body chemistry problems while searching for the cause of ARF. Drugs that may be contributing to ARF should be discontinued. Dehydration is corrected by intravenous administration of fluids.
  • Vomiting may be induced if a kidney toxic agent has been ingested within the past few hours and the cat has not yet vomited. This is especially important in anti-freeze poisoning in which time is critical. Always call your veterinarian immediately if you believe your pet has consumed even the smallest quantity of anti-freeze.
  • Fluid therapy is important to increase kidney blood flow, correct and prevent dehydration and control abnormalities in serum electrolytes. Care must be taken to avoid overhydration, because the kidneys may not be able to produce sufficient urine to eliminate excess fluid. Overhydration can lead to fluid accumulation in the lungs (pulmonary edema) which may be life-threatening. Nevertheless, fluid therapy is extremely important initially, and drug therapy may be required to encourage urine production.
  • Fluid therapy may aid kidney function and encourage urine production. Diuretics may be used after rehydration. Mannitol and furosemide are diuretic agents that may be given, often in combination with dopamine. Dopamine is a chemical that causes dilation of the renal arteries and potentially can increase filtration in the kidneys when administered at low dosages.
  • Management of hyperkalemia (high blood potassium concentration) is important because potassium is toxic to the heart. Treatment may include sodium bicarbonate, glucose and insulin, calcium, or dialysis. An electrocardiogram should be monitored during treatment.
  • Acid base imbalance is corrected by administration of sodium bicarbonate.
  • Abnormally high blood phosphorus concentration may be treated with intestinal phosphorus binders such as aluminum hydroxide.
  • Cats with ARF may vomit frequently and several different drugs may be used to control this symptom.
  • Anemia due to blood loss can be treated with blood transfusion.
  • Ethylene glycol poisoning may be treated with 4-methylpyrazole (Antizol) or 20 percent ethanol.

    Close patient monitoring is vital. Monitoring may include serial body weight (to facilitate proper fluid therapy), measurement of urine output (often with a urinary catheter), packed cell volume (an indication of the percentage of the blood that consists of red blood cells), and total plasma proteins to monitor fluid volume. Serial determination of serum biochemistry tests is necessary to determine if the animal is responding to treatment.

    Treatment for ARF may require several days or as long as two to three weeks depending on the underlying cause of ARF and the response of the individual animal to treatment. This prolonged hospitalization can be frustrating for all concerned, because it frequently is impossible to predict the outcome. If conservative medical treatment fails, peritoneal dialysis (or in exceptional circumstances hemodialysis) may be a treatment possibility. Referral to a specialist or 24-hour critical care facility is required for dialysis treatment.

    Euthanasia must be considered for pets that do not respond to treatment.

  • Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailsattery.com
  • Posted in Acute renal failure (ARF), bacterial, bactiera E. coli, Diagnosis, disease, Poisionus Plants, Posions, symptoms, Treatment, Urinalysis, Urinary | Leave a Comment »

    Plants That Your Cat Shouldn’t Eat

    March 24, 2009

    Plants That Your Cat Shouldn’t Eat

    By: Christian Yost

    March 24, 2009

    Cats love plants. Though they’re strict carnivores, cats like to eat plants even though doing so can make them ill. The consequences can range from simple vomiting to liver failures, seizures and even death. And while most animal species learn to stay away from things that make them sick, cats will eat plants over and over with the same results.
    Unfriendly Flowers

    A wide variety of plants are poisonous to cats. Some of the more dangerous are castor bean, foxglove, lily-of-the-valley, Japanese yew, oleander, azalea, rhododendron and hydrangea

    . One castor bean seed can kill, and mistletoe is deadly.

    Flowers such as amaryllis, daffodils, iris, hyacinth and honeysuckle also are poisonous. Christmas trees, pine needles and even water from around the base of Christmas trees can produce oral irritation, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, trembling and hind end weakness.

    Poinsettias aren’t seriously poisonous, though they can cause gastrointestinal irritation and vomiting.

    A  plant family that causes serious problems – but is often left off lists of poisonous plants – is the lily family, including the Easter lily, tiger lily and star-gazer lily. “This is a major cause of acute kidney failure in the cat.

    To Protect Your Cat

  • Keep known poisonous plants out of your cat’s reach.
  • Watch for plants that have been chewed on.
  • Watch your cat for symptoms of poisoning.If Your Cat Eats a Bad Plant

    In order to treat a plant-poisoning problem, it’s important for you and your veterinarian to know specifically what plant your cat consumed. Since both common names and scientific names are used, make sure the identity is correct. If you’re unsure, it might be good to go to a nursery or florist, or bring the plant to your veterinarian for identification.

  • Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com
  • Posted in cat safety, Dangers, Poisionus Plants | Leave a Comment »

    How to Plant a Cat-safe Garden

    March 24, 2009

    How to Plant a Cat-safe Garden

    By: Christian Yost

    March 24, 2009

    This is the time of year when many people look forward to spending free time outside, enhancing their surroundings with lush plants and flowers. As many pets enjoy being outside in the warm spring and summer months, too, some thought must be given to their safety in the lawn and garden. With a little careful planning, you and your pet can enjoy a safe and relaxing garden environment. Whether you’re planning a large garden to feed the family or decorating a small space with hanging baskets and containers, here are a few factors to be considered.

    Plant Selection

    Plants and flowers are nature’s attention getters. Their fragrance, appearance, and cool shade they create are natural attractants for you and your pet. Curiosity often leads pets to consume the flowers and foliage of ornamental plants, which can produce irritating and sometimes life threatening side effects.

    When planning your garden, select plants that are non-toxic if touched or consumed.

    Plants for a Sunny Location

    If the location of your garden gives you 4 or more hours of direct sunlight a day, you have a long list of annuals and perennials from which to choose. Annuals grow from seed and last one growing season. They are good choices for fast, instant color impact. Garden and discount centers will offer a wide variety of annual plants at economical prices. Perennials return year after year from growth at the roots, they are a little more expensive, but do not need to be planted every growing season. Most gardeners have their favorites and mix both types for the longest possible color show. Safe choices for sunny locations include:

    Annuals

  • Zinnia (Zinnia sp.)
  • Snapdragons (Antirrhinum sp.)
  • Cosmos (Cosmos sp.)
  • Calendula (Callendula sp.)
  • Petunia (Petunia sp.)

    Perennial

  • Bee Balm (Monarda sp.)
  • Phlox (Phlox sp.)
  • Roses (Rose sp.)
  • Catmint/catnip (Nepeta sp.)
  • Coneflowers (Echinacea purpura)

    Plants for Partial Sun

    If your garden receives less than 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, the following list of non-toxic annuals and perennials requires less sunlight.

    Annuals

  • Primrose(Primula sp.)
  • Butterfly flower(Schianthus sp.)
  • Spider flower (Cleome sp.)
  • Nasturtium (Tropaeolum sp.)

    Perennials

  • Columbine(Aquilegia sp.)
  • Coral Bells (Heuchera sp.)
  • Turf Lilly (Liriope sp.)
  • Goat’s Beard (Aruncus dioicus)

    Shade Gardens

    A shade garden receives little to no direct sunlight, although the sun may filter through the trees for dappled light. Plant selection for these areas may include the following:

    Annuals

  • Begonia (Begonia sp.)
  • Impatiens (Impatiens sp.)
  • New Guinea Impatiens
  • Violet (Viola sp.)
  • Coleus (Coleus sp.)

    Perennials

  • Hosta (Hosta sp.)
  • Bugbane (Cimifuga racemosa)
  • Yellow Corydalis (Corydalis lutea)
  • Astilbe (Astilbe sp.)
  • Queen of the Meadow (Filipendula ulmaria)

    Vegetable Gardens

    If you’re interest is vegetables, you’ll need 4 or more hours of full sun for most plants. Keeping your pet out of the vegetable garden may be your biggest task, especially when plants are young and fragile. Some clearly visible fencing may help. Avoid hardware cloth as pets can become entangled. Motion detector sprinkler can be useful in keeping pets and wildlife out of newly planted areas, and are not harmful. Most vegetable plants do not pose toxicity problems with a few exceptions. Onions, chives and garlic, which a lot of pets do like, contain compounds that, if ingested, can cause anemia. The leafy part of the potato plant, and the green part of the potato skin contain compounds that are toxic if eaten in sufficient quantities. Fruits also contain toxic chemicals in their seeds/pits. Apple, plum, cherry, apricot and peach seeds/pits contain cyanide, which can cause fatal seizures.

    The 10 Least Wanted

    The following is a list of plants that is best to avoid altogether due to their toxic nature. It is not a comprehensive list, if you are considering any plant of which you are unsure; consult your local plant nursery.

  • Castor bean (Ricinus communis)
  • Oleander (Nerium oleander)
  • Morning Glory (Ipomea sp.)
  • Japanese Yew (Taxus cuspidata)
  • Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum)
  • Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
  • Nightshade (Atropa belladonna)
  • Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)
  • Precatory Beans (Arbus precatorius)
  • Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans)

    Lawn and Garden Chemicals

    It is very easy to reach for a chemical pesticide, fertilizer or fungicide when faced with a problem in the lawn or garden. Fortunately for the average home gardener, safer alternatives are available for most commonly encountered problems, reducing the risk of a toxic exposure for your pet. You would not think that your pet would have any reason to consume these products but sadly they do, either intentionally or inadvertently and these types of poisonings are all too common. Remember before applying any product to your lawn, vegetables, or ornamental plants to read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Many of these products are designed to persist in the environment days to weeks after application, so a pet can have an exposure days to weeks after initial application.

    Alternatives to Chemical Pesticides

    If you notice damaging insects on your plants such as aphids, spider mites or thrips, these insects can be eliminated or reduced by a simple spray of water. These soft-bodied insects are easily dislodged. Adjust the nozzle of your hose so a firm spray will not harm your plants and wash them away. If you have only a few plants, use a good stream of water from your watering can and a little hand washing. It may take a day or two but an infestation can be cleared by no more than a good shower!

    Soap and Water

    If your insect problem is more serious, add a teaspoon of dish soap to a gallon of water and use it in a garden sprayer. The soap is an irritant to a lot of insects and can help break down the protective barriers of their external skeleton. There are commercial insecticidal soaps available that are less toxic than most chemical alternatives.

    Compost

    The “black gold” of the garden, recycled kitchen and yard waste can be combined to produce the best garden fertilizer at no cost and reduce the need for chemical fertilizers. It can be applied to the lawn and garden twice a year and it will replace the essential nutrients that growing plants and grasses require.

    And Don’t Forget

    Sometimes we forget the simplest things! Put your pets inside when mowing the lawn. A lawn mower can make a projectile out of a stick or rock that can injure your pet. Paint your garden tools a bright color such as red or yellow so you can see them out in the yard. Many pets step or trip on sharp garden implements. Store your chemicals out of reach and in their original containers. Don’t assume your pet will not be interested in consuming these products. If there is a toxic exposure or consumption, call your veterinarian immediately with the information from the product label. Keep your pets inside when applying any chemicals to the lawn or garden. With a little planning you and your pet can enjoy a safe and beautiful garden.

  • Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com
  • Posted in cat safety, Dangers, Pets, Poisionus Plants, Posions | Leave a Comment »


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