Outdoor Dangers

By: Christian Yost

March 30, 2009

So, you believe that cats with the fancy pedigrees are for someone else, thank you very much. You enjoy nature in its basic, pristine form, and the good old Heinz-57 All-American Cat is your companion of choice. Along with that choice, you are convinced that the basic cat, with his instincts fully intact because of natural rather than man made selection, will be happiest if he is allowed to enjoy the great out-of-doors.
Whether pedigreed or random-bred, the vast majority of cats can be perfectly happy indoors, calmly watching nature from the safety of their home, as long as a stimulating environment is provided.

In fact, most United States cat experts – the Cat Fanciers Association, humane organizations and others – are continually trying to reach the public with the message that keeping a cat indoors protects him from disease and all manner and means of danger.

These include the threat of contagious diseases such as feline luekemia, feline immunodeficiency virus, feline infectious peritonitis and rabies, besides the ever-present dangers from cars and larger predators.

However, some cat behaviorists in Great Britain believe that keeping cats indoors may contribute to behavior problems, such as house soiling. They claim that cats are not allowed to vent their natural expression indoors.

Safety Issues

The dangers that a cat can face when allowed out unsupervised depend a great deal on where the cat lives – urban, rural, or suburban area. In general, an outdoor cat faces the following risks:

Disease. Feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency syndromes are two diseases that cats spread from one another. Unaltered male cats are at particular risk because they tend to fight, and both diseases are spread by contact through the saliva.

Unwanted pregnancy. Your unaltered female cat may return to you “in a family way.”

Parasites. Ticks, fleas and worms usually attack outdoor cats and can be brought into your home, where they can spread to both you and your other pets. Fleas and ticks cause allergies, skin irritation and anemia. In addition, trying to rid your home of these insects can get complicated.

Accidents. Outdoor cats face the risk of being killed by motor vehicles. Naturally, this is more common in urban areas. They could also get caught in traps meant for other animals or consume poisonous substances. Far from home, they may not be able to get back.

Predators. In rural areas, cats can fall victim to larger predators. This can include dog fights, cat fights and wildlife as well as humans. Outdoor cats can suffer torn ears, cut eyes and abscesses and have a much greater risk of gunshot injury than indoor cats.

Laws. If caught in someone’s yard, your cat could be taken to an animal shelter. Without identification, the shelter may put the cat to sleep after a period of time. In fact, euthanasia kills more cats than all other dangers combined.

Dusk and dawn are the most dangerous times for a cat to be out. In rural areas, these are the primary hunting times for many larger predators; in cities and towns, they are the times that visibility for drivers is particularly low. The safest time for a cat to be outdoors is during the daytime hours.

Keeping Your Outdoor Cat Safe

There is a compromise: Free-standing chain-link enclosure designed as a dog run can be adapted to a cat by adding a top. These enclosures are available from fencing companies and some hardware stores.

Another possibility is to train your cat to accept a harness and leash for supervised outdoor walks. The training process does require some patience, but is not nearly as difficult as generally portrayed, and both of you can enjoy the outdoors safely.

If you believe your cat should be outside, you can take steps to reduce the risks:

Vaccinations. It is particularly important to protect your cat against rabies (which is the law and just plain good sense). It is important to know that feline vaccinations are neither complete nor 100 percent effective against the spectrum of fatal feline viral diseases such as feline leukemia.

Make sure that your cat has access to an environment that is clean and safe. Do not leave antifreeze, lawn chemicals, rat poisons, or other harmful substances in the garage or shed where your cat can find them. You would not think that your pet would have any reason to consume these products but sadly they do, either intentionally or inadvertently, and these types of poisonings are all too common.

Before applying any product to your lawn, vegetables, or ornamental plants, remember to read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Many of these products are designed to endure in the environment days to weeks after application, so a pet can have an exposure days to weeks after initial application.

Curiosity often leads pets to consume the  and foliage of ornamental plants, which can produce irritating and sometimes life-threatening side effects. When planning a cat-safe garden, select plants that are non-toxic if touched or consumed.

Provide shelter for your outdoor cat. Consider letting your pet in during extreme temperatures – hot or cold – and during severe weather. Otherwise, provide a porch, cat box, umbrella or some other type of protection.

Neuter or spay outdoor cats. This is important for the health of your cat (and your own sanity) even if she doesn’t go outside. It is also important in controlling unwanted cat populations. In addition, without the powerful reproductive urge, your cat is less likely to wander from her property. Male cats are much less likely to fight (which can lead to injuries and infection).

Identify your pet.

Safety collars. A collar with your name and phone number will reduce the risk of your pet being euthanized as a stray. Without some form of identification, the cat is likely to become a victim of the system.

Microchip technology is permanent and relatively inexpensive. Micro-chipping is also a good way to identify your pet if he/she would appear at a local veterinary office, emergency clinic or humane society. Check to make sure that shelters in your area do scan for microchips on incoming animals, and that their reader is one that will at least detect the presence of a chip, even if the chip is a competitor’s brand.

Keeping your cat safe is not the only issue. Keeping birds safe from outdoor cats is also a concern. Thousands of birds are killed each year by prowling cats. In some areas, the populations of certain songbirds has been drastically diminished by cat attacks. To help keep birds safe, consider adding a bell to your cat’s collar

or provide your cat an escape-proof area so he can safely enjoy the outdoors without destroying it.

Please  visit us at  www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Top 10 Kitty Care Tips

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

These practical dos and don’ts are just what you need before you welcome that furry new friend into your family!

Some people own their cats; some cats own their owners. Either way, all cat-lovers agree that welcoming a kitten or cat into the house is a wonderful adventure! To make it more enjoyable, learn these kitty-care basics first with these 10 kitten care tips.

What to Do
The transition to a new home can be confusing and frightening for your kitten, so make sure he feels loved and protected. The following tips may help make those first exciting days easier:

1. Consider adopting a kitten or full-grown cat from your local animal shelter. Many wonderful animals are available through no fault of their own, often because their owners died or moved from the area.

2. Feed high-quality nutrition. Quality nutrition is essential to good health. Help your kitten live a long and healthy life by feeding quality food designed just for him.

3. Prepare for his arrival. Purchase all the food and supplies you need before you bring home your new pet. The basics should include shallow feeding bowls, a collar and I.D. tag, litter box and premium litter, brush, metal comb, grooming mitt, nail clippers, bed, scratching post and toys.

4. Kitty-proof your home. Cats are natural-born explorers, so be sure to thoroughly kitty-proof his new surroundings. Make sure plants, especially those toxic to cats, are out of his reach. Also, don’t let him near medicines, strings, cleaning products or standing water (like bathtubs and toilets).

5. Introduce your family slowly. Your new kitten should meet family members one at a time. If kitty seems frightened at first, keep him confined to one room for a few days until he adjusts.

6. Provide regular veterinarian visits. To make sure your new kitten is in tip-top shape, take him for a veterinary visit when he’s eight weeks old. I stress that this initial exam is very important. “Not only will kitty get a thorough checkup,”the first visit also helps us to detect abnormalities such as eye problems, malformations, tooth and gum problems or heart murmurs.”Yearly checkups are crucial to a cat�s well being.

7. Groom your kitten often. To keep kitty looking and feeling her best, start basic grooming early, preferably on the day you bring her home, so she gets used to you handling her regularly.

• Brush and comb her fur weekly to help control mats and hairballs.
• Brush her teeth twice a week to prevent tartar buildup, which can lead to other health problems. Be sure to use a toothpaste made for cats and not humans.
• Trim her claws once a week with cat clippers, carefully avoiding the sensitive base of the nail.
• Wipe her eyes and the insides of her ears with a damp cloth or cotton ball, looking for any excess grime, which could indicate illness.

8. Play with her daily. An active lifestyle that includes daily exercise, like playing, will help keep your cat trim and healthy. Throw balls, toy mice and balled-up pieces of paper for her to chase, or dangle “teaser” toys to keep her active.

9. Bathe your kitten. Occasional bathing of your cat will keep her smelling great and keep dander under control, which may help alleviate any allergic reactions. Make sure you use a cat shampoo and rinse thoroughly, because shampoo left behind will cause your cat to froth when she licks herself.

10. Never feed her human food. Avoid giving your kitten “people food”, such as cow’s milk, tuna and chocolate, which can lead to digestive upset or serious illness. Adding human food treats to your kitten’s diet may cause her to gain too much weight. Now that you’ve got the basics covered with these kitten care tips, you’re ready to welcome that special new family member into your life.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Why growing cats should stick to their diets

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

Most of us are happy to share morsels from our plates with our pets. When it comes to kitten health, however, it’s best to limit their consumption of people food. Veterinarians at the Cornell Feline Health Center in Ithaca, N.Y. say table scraps should make up less than 10% of your kitten’s total daily food intake. Avoid giving her fatty foods and anything with bones, which are a choking hazard.

Keep in mind that if you give your kitten human food she could begin to prefer it to her own food, which has all of the nutrients he needs in all the right proportions. Another potential downside is that you may also be teaching her to beg, a habit that’s difficult to break.

More important, foods that are good for you aren’t necessarily good for kitten health. In particular, never give your kitten the following, which can be dangerous:

• Alcoholic beverages
• Almonds
• Apple seeds
• Apricots
• Avocado
• Cherries
• Chocolate
• Coffee (all forms)
• Fatty foods
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Macadamia nuts
• Moldy foods
• Mushrooms
• Mustard seeds
• Onions, onion powder, onion salt
• Peach pits
• Potato leaves, stems and eyes
• Raisins
• Rhubarb
• Salt
• Tomato leaves and stems
• Walnuts
• Yeast dough
• Products sweetened with xylitol

For information on additional substances that are potentially hazardous, refer to the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Acute Renal (Kidney) Failure in Cats

By: Christian Yost

March 27, 2009

Acute kidney failure (acute renal failure or ARF) is characterized by an abrupt decline in kidney function that leads to changes in the chemistry of the body including alterations in fluid and mineral balance. The changes that arise as a result of ARF affect almost every body system.

The kidneys filter blood, remove the waste products of metabolism and eliminate them in the urine. The kidneys also regulate the volume and composition of body fluids (including mineral concentrations and acid base balance), and produce hormones that stimulate the production of red blood cells (erythropoietin) and regulate calcium balance (calcitriol).

Acute kidney failure can be caused by toxic injury to the kidneys, decreased blood flow and oxygen delivery to the kidneys, infections, obstruction of the kidneys and prevention of urine elimination caused by a ruptured bladder.

The recent recognition of kidney failure is not necessarily the same as acute renal failure, since some animals with chronic kidney failure tolerate it for some time before symptoms are apparent.

There is no specific breed predilection but older animals are thought to be at greater risk for acute kidney failure. Acute kidney failure is more common in the fall and winter due to pet exposure to anti-freeze which contains ethylene glycol. Cats that are allowed to roam outside without supervision potentially have increased exposure to ethylene glycol.

The symptoms of ARF, although often severe, are not specific. Even with intensive management, ARF is a very serious disorder and often is fatal.

What to Watch For

Disorientation

Incoordination

Decreased urine production

Straining to urinate

Loss of appetite

Lethargy

Vomiting

Weakness

Changes in water consumption and urination

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will take a complete medical history specifically questioning exposure to ethylene glycol (anti-freeze), recent surgery or anesthesia (possibly causing decreased blood flow to the kidneys), exposure to drugs toxic to the kidneys (aminoglycoside group of antibiotics and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) and previous illnesses. The following diagnostic tests may also be necessary to recognize acute kidney failure and exclude other diseases. Tests may include:

Complete physical examination

Serum biochemistry tests

Urinalysis

Complete blood count

X-rays of the abdomen

Culture of the urine

Ultrasound examination

Kidney biopsy

Ethylene glycol test

Blood tests for certain infections

Treatment

ARF is a life-threatening serious condition that requires hospitalization and intensive treatment. Treatment consists of identification and correction of life-threatening problems while searching for the underlying cause of ARF. Treatment for ARF may include one or more of the following:

Induce vomiting

Intravenous fluids

Drugs that encourage urine production

Management of blood electrolyte abnormalities

Monitor urinary output

Control of vomiting

Management of anemia

Peritoneal dialysis or hemodialysis

Treatment with 4-methylpyrazole (Antizol®) or ethanol

Home Care

Acute renal failure is a life-threatening condition and there is no effective home treatment. If you suspect your pet has this condition, or if you even suspect your pet may have consumed even a small amount of anti-freeze, you should call your veterinarian immediately. Your veterinarian may instruct you to induce vomiting before bringing your pet to the hospital.

Administer any medications prescribed by your veterinarian. Follow-up examinations and laboratory tests are important to assess your pet’s response to treatment. Allow free access to fresh clean water.

Preventative Care

Avoid exposure to ethylene glycol (anti-freeze), and avoid exposure to drugs known to be toxic to the kidney (e.g. aminoglycoside antibiotics and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs). Don’t allow cats to roam outside unattended.

Acute renal failure (ARF) is a life-threatening disorder that can affect cats of any age.

Acute renal failure may be caused by decreased blood flow to the kidneys (called ischemia) or exposure to certain drugs or chemicals that are toxic to the kidneys.

Low blood flow to the kidneys may occur during anesthesia and surgery, and some drugs such as the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents like ibuprofen may also cause ARF by reducing blood flow to certain parts of the kidneys. Other causes of reduced blood flow to the kidneys include severe dehydration, shock, poor heart function, heat stroke and overwhelming infection (sepsis).

Many toxins can damage the kidneys and lead to ARF. Probably most important is ethylene glycol, which is the active ingredient of anti-freeze. Some antibiotics, especially a class of injectable antibiotics known as aminoglycosides, can cause damage to the tubules of the kidney and ARF.

High blood calcium concentration likewise can damage the kidneys. Heavy metals (e.g. lead, arsenic), contrast dyes used for certain X-ray procedures, and some anesthetics also can damage the kidneys. An important toxin that specifically affects the kidneys of cats is the Easter Lily. Cats should never be allowed access to this group of plants. Some older drugs used to treat heartworms (thiacetarsamide) and fungal infections (amphotericin B) also are toxic to the kidneys.

Acute bacterial infection of the kidneys (called pyelonephritis) also can produce ARF.

Rare causes of ARF include glomerulonephritis (acute inflammation of the microscopic filtering devices of the kidney called glomeruli), glomerular amyloidosis (deposition of an insoluble type of protein in the kidney), disseminated intravascular coagulation (a body-wide clotting disorder), obstruction by blood clots of the arteries going to the kidneys, and hemolytic-uremic syndrome (liver and kidney failure caused by a specific strain of the bacteria E. coli).

Urinary obstruction is a type of reversible ARF that is treated by relieving the obstruction.

The most common causes of death during treatment of ARF are high blood potassium concentration, acid-base disturbances, very high concentrations of waste products in the blood that do not improve with fluid therapy and excessive administration of fluids with fluid accumulation in the lungs.

Animals unable to produce urine despite medical treatment have little chance for survival without peritoneal dialysis (infusion and removal of fluid into the abdominal cavity to remove waste products from the body). Hemodialysis can be performed in animals but is only available at selected referral hospitals and is very costly.

The prognosis for recovery of kidney function in ARF depends on the severity of the kidney damage, the underlying cause of ARF and supportive treatment.

Other medical problems can lead to symptoms similar to those encountered in ARF. A thorough medical evaluation is needed to diagnose ARF including laboratory testing and diagnostic imaging (X-rays or ultrasound). Warning signs that owners may see in pets with ARF include complete loss of appetite, marked lethargy, and vomiting. Unfortunately, these symptoms are very non-specific and may be caused by many other disease conditions. If is important to consult your veterinarian promptly.

Veterniary care should include diagnostic tests of kidney function, including blood tests and urinalysis, and subsequent treatment recommendations.

Diagnosis

Diagnostic tests may be needed to recognize ARF and to exclude other diseases. Tests may include:

A complete medical history and physical examination

A complete blood count (CBC) to evaluate for signs of infection, inflammation, anemia or clotting abnormalities

Blood biochemistry tests to identify the presence of kidney failure. Commonly used tests to identify kidney failure include blood urea nitrogen (BUN), serum creatinine, and serum phosphorus. These test results are abnormally high in patients with kidney failure but these tests alone do not identify whether the kidney failure is acute or chronic. The veterinarian must use other tests and diagnostic reasoning to determine if the kidney failure is acute or chronic.

Urinalysis. Protein, blood or glucose may be observed in the urine of patients with ARF. The presence of microscopic crystals (such as calcium oxalate) can support a diagnosis of ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) poisoning. Microscopic casts of the kidney tubules often are seen with acute injury of the kidney, and white blood cells or casts may be found when kidney infection is present.

Additional diagnostic tests may be recommended for individual pets, including:

Kidney ultrasonography to determine if the kidney failure is acute or chronic and to help identify some specific causes of ARF (e.g. anti-freeze poisoning). Kidneys of patients with ARF typically are normal-sized to large. The presence of small, irregularly-shaped kidneys more often suggests a chronic kidney disease. Cats that drink anti-freeze often have kidneys that have increased density on  within a few hours of consuming anti-freeze.

A urine culture to identify urinary tract infection

Blood gas analysis to identify acid-base disturbances

Arterial blood pressure should be monitored because high blood pressure can complicate ARF. Central venous pressure may be monitored with a catheter in the jugular vein, especially if an inadequate volume of urine is produced.

Ethylene glycol testing to diagnose this toxicity; a special test kit is required for this purpose.

Kidney biopsy may be necessary to determine the cause of ARF and to guide treatment and prognosis.

Therapy

Treatments for ARF may include one or more of the following:

Treatment of ARF must be individualized based on the cause and severity of the condition, as well as other conditions and complications identified by your veterinarian. Of great importance is the ability of the pet to produce urine. Low urine output or complete absence of urine production is a very serious finding.

Prognostic signs are poor if the pet does not respond to initial drug and fluid therapy. The ultimate goal of ARF management is to provide supportive care while allowing the kidneys time to recover. Your veterinarian should identify and correct the most life-threatening body chemistry problems while searching for the cause of ARF. Drugs that may be contributing to ARF should be discontinued. Dehydration is corrected by intravenous administration of fluids.

Vomiting may be induced if a kidney toxic agent has been ingested within the past few hours and the cat has not yet vomited. This is especially important in anti-freeze poisoning in which time is critical. Always call your veterinarian immediately if you believe your pet has consumed even the smallest quantity of anti-freeze.

Fluid therapy is important to increase kidney blood flow, correct and prevent dehydration and control abnormalities in serum electrolytes. Care must be taken to avoid overhydration, because the kidneys may not be able to produce sufficient urine to eliminate excess fluid. Overhydration can lead to fluid accumulation in the lungs (pulmonary edema) which may be life-threatening. Nevertheless, fluid therapy is extremely important initially, and drug therapy may be required to encourage urine production.

Fluid therapy may aid kidney function and encourage urine production. Diuretics may be used after rehydration. Mannitol and furosemide are diuretic agents that may be given, often in combination with dopamine. Dopamine is a chemical that causes dilation of the renal arteries and potentially can increase filtration in the kidneys when administered at low dosages.

Management of hyperkalemia (high blood potassium concentration) is important because potassium is toxic to the heart. Treatment may include sodium bicarbonate, glucose and insulin, calcium, or dialysis. An electrocardiogram should be monitored during treatment.

Acid base imbalance is corrected by administration of sodium bicarbonate.

Abnormally high blood phosphorus concentration may be treated with intestinal phosphorus binders such as aluminum hydroxide.

Cats with ARF may vomit frequently and several different drugs may be used to control this symptom.

Anemia due to blood loss can be treated with blood transfusion.

Ethylene glycol poisoning may be treated with 4-methylpyrazole (Antizol) or 20 percent ethanol.

Close patient monitoring is vital. Monitoring may include serial body weight (to facilitate proper fluid therapy), measurement of urine output (often with a urinary catheter), packed cell volume (an indication of the percentage of the blood that consists of red blood cells), and total plasma proteins to monitor fluid volume. Serial determination of serum biochemistry tests is necessary to determine if the animal is responding to treatment.

Treatment for ARF may require several days or as long as two to three weeks depending on the underlying cause of ARF and the response of the individual animal to treatment. This prolonged hospitalization can be frustrating for all concerned, because it frequently is impossible to predict the outcome. If conservative medical treatment fails, peritoneal dialysis (or in exceptional circumstances hemodialysis) may be a treatment possibility. Referral to a specialist or 24-hour critical care facility is required for dialysis treatment.

Euthanasia must be considered for pets that do not respond to treatment.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailsattery.com

How to Plant a Cat-safe Garden

How to Plant a Cat-safe Garden

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

This is the time of year when many people look forward to spending free time outside, enhancing their surroundings with lush plants and flowers. As many pets enjoy being outside in the warm spring and summer months, too, some thought must be given to their safety in the lawn and garden. With a little careful planning, you and your pet can enjoy a safe and relaxing garden environment. Whether you’re planning a large garden to feed the family or decorating a small space with hanging baskets and containers, here are a few factors to be considered.

Plant Selection

Plants and flowers are nature’s attention getters. Their fragrance, appearance, and cool shade they create are natural attractants for you and your pet. Curiosity often leads pets to consume the flowers and foliage of ornamental plants, which can produce irritating and sometimes life threatening side effects.

When planning your garden, select plants that are non-toxic if touched or consumed.

Plants for a Sunny Location

If the location of your garden gives you 4 or more hours of direct sunlight a day, you have a long list of annuals and perennials from which to choose. Annuals grow from seed and last one growing season. They are good choices for fast, instant color impact. Garden and discount centers will offer a wide variety of annual plants at economical prices. Perennials return year after year from growth at the roots, they are a little more expensive, but do not need to be planted every growing season. Most gardeners have their favorites and mix both types for the longest possible color show. Safe choices for sunny locations include:

Annuals

Zinnia (Zinnia sp.)

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum sp.)

Cosmos (Cosmos sp.)

Calendula (Callendula sp.)

Petunia (Petunia sp.)

Perennial

Bee Balm (Monarda sp.)

Phlox (Phlox sp.)

Roses (Rose sp.)

Catmint/catnip (Nepeta sp.)

Coneflowers (Echinacea purpura)

Plants for Partial Sun

If your garden receives less than 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, the following list of non-toxic annuals and perennials requires less sunlight.

Annuals

Primrose(Primula sp.)

Butterfly flower(Schianthus sp.)

Spider flower (Cleome sp.)

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum sp.)

Perennials

Columbine(Aquilegia sp.)

Coral Bells (Heuchera sp.)

Turf Lilly (Liriope sp.)

Goat’s Beard (Aruncus dioicus)

Shade Gardens

A shade garden receives little to no direct sunlight, although the sun may filter through the trees for dappled light. Plant selection for these areas may include the following:

Annuals

Begonia (Begonia sp.)

Impatiens (Impatiens sp.)

New Guinea Impatiens

Violet (Viola sp.)

Coleus (Coleus sp.)

Perennials

Hosta (Hosta sp.)

Bugbane (Cimifuga racemosa)

Yellow Corydalis (Corydalis lutea)

Astilbe (Astilbe sp.)

Queen of the Meadow (Filipendula ulmaria)

Vegetable Gardens

If you’re interest is vegetables, you’ll need 4 or more hours of full sun for most plants. Keeping your pet out of the vegetable garden may be your biggest task, especially when plants are young and fragile. Some clearly visible fencing may help. Avoid hardware cloth as pets can become entangled. Motion detector sprinkler can be useful in keeping pets and wildlife out of newly planted areas, and are not harmful. Most vegetable plants do not pose toxicity problems with a few exceptions. Onions, chives and garlic, which a lot of pets do like, contain compounds that, if ingested, can cause anemia. The leafy part of the potato plant, and the green part of the potato skin contain compounds that are toxic if eaten in sufficient quantities. Fruits also contain toxic chemicals in their seeds/pits. Apple, plum, cherry, apricot and peach seeds/pits contain cyanide, which can cause fatal seizures.

The 10 Least Wanted

The following is a list of plants that is best to avoid altogether due to their toxic nature. It is not a comprehensive list, if you are considering any plant of which you are unsure; consult your local plant nursery.

Castor bean (Ricinus communis)

Oleander (Nerium oleander)

Morning Glory (Ipomea sp.)

Japanese Yew (Taxus cuspidata)

Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum)

Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

Nightshade (Atropa belladonna)

Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)

Precatory Beans (Arbus precatorius)

Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans)

Lawn and Garden Chemicals

It is very easy to reach for a chemical pesticide, fertilizer or fungicide when faced with a problem in the lawn or garden. Fortunately for the average home gardener, safer alternatives are available for most commonly encountered problems, reducing the risk of a toxic exposure for your pet. You would not think that your pet would have any reason to consume these products but sadly they do, either intentionally or inadvertently and these types of poisonings are all too common. Remember before applying any product to your lawn, vegetables, or ornamental plants to read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Many of these products are designed to persist in the environment days to weeks after application, so a pet can have an exposure days to weeks after initial application.

Alternatives to Chemical Pesticides

If you notice damaging insects on your plants such as aphids, spider mites or thrips, these insects can be eliminated or reduced by a simple spray of water. These soft-bodied insects are easily dislodged. Adjust the nozzle of your hose so a firm spray will not harm your plants and wash them away. If you have only a few plants, use a good stream of water from your watering can and a little hand washing. It may take a day or two but an infestation can be cleared by no more than a good shower!

Soap and Water

If your insect problem is more serious, add a teaspoon of dish soap to a gallon of water and use it in a garden sprayer. The soap is an irritant to a lot of insects and can help break down the protective barriers of their external skeleton. There are commercial insecticidal soaps available that are less toxic than most chemical alternatives.

Compost

The “black gold” of the garden, recycled kitchen and yard waste can be combined to produce the best garden fertilizer at no cost and reduce the need for chemical fertilizers. It can be applied to the lawn and garden twice a year and it will replace the essential nutrients that growing plants and grasses require.

And Don’t Forget

Sometimes we forget the simplest things! Put your pets inside when mowing the lawn. A lawn mower can make a projectile out of a stick or rock that can injure your pet. Paint your garden tools a bright color such as red or yellow so you can see them out in the yard. Many pets step or trip on sharp garden implements. Store your chemicals out of reach and in their original containers. Don’t assume your pet will not be interested in consuming these products. If there is a toxic exposure or consumption, call your veterinarian immediately with the information from the product label. Keep your pets inside when applying any chemicals to the lawn or garden. With a little planning you and your pet can enjoy a safe and beautiful garden.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Garden & Lawn Hazards in Cats

Garden & Lawn Hazards in Cats

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

In the summer, children love to spend time in the sandbox. Many adults enjoy the peace and tranquility of gardening. If your household includes a cat that also enjoys time outside, a sandbox or garden is often considered an attractive outdoor litterbox. Your cat’s natural preferences for elimination includes soft sand- or soil-type material so the attraction to these areas can be annoying or even hazardous to your health. Fortunately, there are methods that can be used to discourage this unwanted behavior.

Snail and slug baits are frequently used, and if ingested, cause serious and potentially fatal tremors and seizures.

Citronella candles are used to deter mosquitoes but may cause gastrointestinal inflammation in cats, resulting in vomiting and diarrhea.

Mulch. Most mulches are safe if ingested but there is one uncommon but potentially toxic type of mulch. Cacoa bean mulch is made from the hulls of cacoa beans and when fresh has a rich, chocolate aroma. Ingestion of large amounts of fresh mulch can result in chocolate toxicity. To keep your pet safe, keep him away from the mulch until the chocolate aroma has gone. A thorough watering or heavy rainfull often reduces the potential toxicity.

Many products are used to create beautiful lawns and productive gardens. With proper handling, use and storage of these products, illness and potential tragedy can be avoided. Keep lawn and garden products stored in an area that your pet cannot enter. During application of these products, keep your pet confined in a safe area. Should exposure to any of these products occur, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Keeping Your Cat out of the Sandbox or Garden

Keeping Your Cat out of the Sandbox or Garden

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

In the summer, children love to spend time in the sandbox. Many adults enjoy the peace and tranquility of gardening. If your household includes a cat that also enjoys time outside, a sandbox or garden is often considered an attractive outdoor litterbox. Your cat’s natural preferences for elimination includes soft sand- or soil-type material so the attraction to these areas can be annoying or even hazardous to your health. Fortunately, there are methods that can be used to discourage this unwanted behavior.

Sandbox Covers

The most effective way to discourage your cat from using your child’s sandbox is to prevent access to it by covering it when not in use. A hard plastic cover available a local hardware stores does an excellent job. It has the extra advantage of protecting the area from rain and keeping young children from playing while unsupervised. These covers can be secured and are easy to clean.

On the downside, they can require more space to store. An alternative is to use a tarp, which is flexible and requires little space but may need to be secured around the edges to keep it from accumulating rainwater or blowing away.

For the do-it-yourself homeowner, a custom top can be constructed using lengths of PVC pipe. Make a frame slightly larger than the perimeter of the box. Cut a length of hardware cloth and attach in to the pipe with wire or staples. Eliminate all sharp edges. Cover the top with canvas fabric so the wire is not exposed. If your play area is a shape other than rectangular, PVC pipe is a flexible version of PVC and can be bent into curves and circles. Using large whole hardware cloth or chicken wire is not recommended because of the danger of your pet and children becoming entangled.

Spray Repellants

For both sandboxes and gardens, there are a variety of commercial sprays designed as animal deterrents. They contain preparations that are offensive, but not harmful, to cats. Applying these sprays around the box or garden border when it is first installed in the spring is often helpful. Rain and sunlight will decrease their effectiveness so they have to be reapplied regularly on a calm day to discourage drifting. A homemade preparation of garlic and onion works too. In a blender, add 2 cloves of garlic and 1 small chopped onion to 2 cups of hot water. Blend thoroughly. Strain the pulp through a cheesecloth or strainer and discard or add to the compost pile. Use the liquid in a garden sprayer around the perimeter of the sandbox or garden. Let it dry before children and pets have access.

Other Ideas

Some people have tried placing a thin layer of decorative rocks or stones over the soil to make the garden unattractive to cats. Unfortunately, this method is limited to the type of plants in your garden.

Some gardeners have tried mixing mothballs into the soil. The odor of the mothballs is a deterrent to some cats. You must be careful when using mothballs since overexposure can cause illness in your cat.

Given Their Own, They’ll Leave Yours Alone

If the above suggestion still aren’t deterring you determined feline, how about considering a space in the yard/garden that only your cat will enjoy? A small space with cat-attractive plants could be established in a quiet corner of the yard away from children’s activities. Common choices for plants would include catnip and catmint. Both are easy to grow, and provide attractive foliage for the yard. Take an extra litter pan and dig it into the soil so its surface is flush with the ground. Add a little sand and a handful of dirt. Since cats prefer privacy for their eliminations, a quiet hidden spot such as this may do the trick. It will, however, need to be cleaned like any other cat box. One word of caution, both catmint and catnip produce beautiful fragrant flowers that are attractive to bees. To prevent your cat from being stung, remove the flower stalks before they open with a gentle pinch. Don’t forget to dry some catnip for your cat as an extra treat!

If your cat does persist in soiling the sandbox or garden, it is a good idea to check for feces before children get into the sandbox or you start working in the garden. Cats can shed parasites in their feces that are harmful. The sand in the box may also need to be replaced on a regular basis, although replacing dirt is not practical. And all people playing in the sandbox or working in the garden should wash their hands when they are finished.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Outdoor Dangers

Outdoor Dangers

By: Christian Yost

March 24, 2009

So, you believe that cats with the fancy pedigrees are for someone else, thank you very much. You enjoy nature in its basic, pristine form, and the good old Heinz-57 All-American Cat is your companion of choice. Along with that choice, you are convinced that the basic cat, with his instincts fully intact because of natural rather than manmade selection, will be happiest if he is allowed to enjoy the great out-of-doors.

Whether pedigreed or random-bred, the vast majority of cats can be perfectly happy indoors, calmly watching nature from the safety of their home, as long as a stimulating environment is provided.

In fact, most United States cat experts – the Cat Fanciers Association, humane organizations and others – are continually trying to reach the public with the message that keeping a cat indoors protects him from disease and all manner and means of danger.

These include the threat of contagious diseases such as feline leukemia, feline immunodeficiency virus, feline infectious peritonitis and rabies, besides the ever-present dangers from cars and larger predators.

However, some cat behaviorists in Great Britain believe that keeping cats indoors may contribute to behavior problems, such as house soiling. They claim that cats are not allowed to vent their natural expression indoors.

Safety Issues

The dangers that a cat can face when allowed out unsupervised depend a great deal on where the cat lives – urban, rural, or suburban area. In general, an outdoor cat faces the following risks:

Disease. Feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency syndromes are two diseases that cats spread from one another. Unaltered male cats are at particular risk because they tend to fight, and both diseases are spread by contact through the saliva.

Unwanted pregnancy. Your unaltered female cat may return to you “in a family way.”

Parasites. Ticks, fleas and worms usually attack outdoor cats and can be brought into your home, where they can spread to both you and your other pets. Fleas and ticks cause allergies, skin irritation and anemia. In addition, trying to rid your home of these insects can get complicated.

Accidents. Outdoor cats face the risk of being killed by motor vehicles. Naturally, this is more common in urban areas. They could also get caught in traps meant for other animals or consume poisonous substances. Far from home, they may not be able to get back.

Predators. In rural areas, cats can fall victim to larger predators. This can include dog fights, cat fights and wildlife as well as humans. Outdoor cats can suffer torn ears, cut eyes and abscesses and have a much greater risk of gunshot injury than indoor cats.

Laws. If caught in someone’s yard, your cat could be taken to an animal shelter. Without identification, the shelter may put the cat to sleep after a period of time. In fact, euthanasia kills more cats than all other dangers combined.

Dusk and dawn are the most dangerous times for a cat to be out. In rural areas, these are the primary hunting times for many larger predators; in cities and towns, they are the times that visibility for drivers is particularly low. The safest time for a cat to be outdoors is during the daytime hours.

Keeping Your Outdoor Cat Safe

There is a compromise: Free-standing chain-link enclosure designed as a dog run can be adapted to a cat by adding a top. These enclosures are available from fencing companies and some hardware stores.

Another possibility is to train your cat to accept a harness and leash for supervised outdoor walks. The training process does require some patience, but is not nearly as difficult as generally portrayed, and both of you can enjoy the outdoors safely.

If you believe your cat should be outside, you can take steps to reduce the risks:

Vaccinations, It is particularly important to protect your cat against rabies (which is the law and just plain good sense). It is important to know that feline vaccinations are neither complete nor 100 percent effective against the spectrum of fatal feline viral diseases such as feline leukemia.

Make sure that your cat has access to an environment that is clean and safe. Do not leave antifreeze, lawn chemicals, rat poisons, or other harmful substances in the garage or shed where your cat can find them. You would not think that your pet would have any reason to consume these products but sadly they do, either intentionally or inadvertently, and these types of poisonings are all too common.

Before applying any product to your lawn, vegetables, or ornamental plants, remember to read the label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Many of these products are designed to endure in the environment days to weeks after application, so a pet can have an exposure days to weeks after initial application.

Curiosity often leads pets to consume the flowers and foliage of ornamental plants, which can produce irritating and sometimes life-threatening side effects. When planning a cat-safe garden select plants that are non-toxic if touched or consumed.

Provide shelter for your outdoor cat. Consider letting your pet in during extreme temperatures – hot or cold – and during severe weather. Otherwise, provide a porch, cat box, umbrella or some other type of protection.

Neuter or Spay outdoor cats. This is important for the health of your cat (and your own sanity) even if she doesn’t go outside. It is also important in controlling unwanted cat populations. In addition, without the powerful reproductive urge, your cat is less likely to wander from her property. Male cats are much less likely to fight (which can lead to injuries and infection).

Identify your pet.

Safety collars. A collar with your name and phone number will reduce the risk of your pet being euthanized as a stray. Without some form of identification, the cat is likely to become a victim of the system.

Microchip technology is permanent and relatively inexpensive. Microchipping is also a good way to identify your pet if he/she would appear at a local veterinary hospital, emergency clinic or humane society. Check to make sure that shelters in your area do scan for microchips on incoming animals, and that their reader is one that will at least detect the presence of a chip, even if the chip is a competitor’s brand.

Keeping your cat safe is not the only issue. Keeping birds safe from outdoor cats is also a concern. Thousands of birds are killed each year by prowling cats. In some areas, the populations of certain songbirds has been drastically diminished by cat attacks. To help keep birds safe, consider adding a bell to your cat’s collar or provide your cat an escape-proof area so he can safely enjoy the outdoors without destroying it.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com