Top 10 Kitty Care Tips

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

These practical dos and don’ts are just what you need before you welcome that furry new friend into your family!

Some people own their cats; some cats own their owners. Either way, all cat-lovers agree that welcoming a kitten or cat into the house is a wonderful adventure! To make it more enjoyable, learn these kitty-care basics first with these 10 kitten care tips.

What to Do
The transition to a new home can be confusing and frightening for your kitten, so make sure he feels loved and protected. The following tips may help make those first exciting days easier:

1. Consider adopting a kitten or full-grown cat from your local animal shelter. Many wonderful animals are available through no fault of their own, often because their owners died or moved from the area.

2. Feed high-quality nutrition. Quality nutrition is essential to good health. Help your kitten live a long and healthy life by feeding quality food designed just for him.

3. Prepare for his arrival. Purchase all the food and supplies you need before you bring home your new pet. The basics should include shallow feeding bowls, a collar and I.D. tag, litter box and premium litter, brush, metal comb, grooming mitt, nail clippers, bed, scratching post and toys.

4. Kitty-proof your home. Cats are natural-born explorers, so be sure to thoroughly kitty-proof his new surroundings. Make sure plants, especially those toxic to cats, are out of his reach. Also, don’t let him near medicines, strings, cleaning products or standing water (like bathtubs and toilets).

5. Introduce your family slowly. Your new kitten should meet family members one at a time. If kitty seems frightened at first, keep him confined to one room for a few days until he adjusts.

6. Provide regular veterinarian visits. To make sure your new kitten is in tip-top shape, take him for a veterinary visit when he’s eight weeks old. I stress that this initial exam is very important. “Not only will kitty get a thorough checkup,”the first visit also helps us to detect abnormalities such as eye problems, malformations, tooth and gum problems or heart murmurs.”Yearly checkups are crucial to a cat�s well being.

7. Groom your kitten often. To keep kitty looking and feeling her best, start basic grooming early, preferably on the day you bring her home, so she gets used to you handling her regularly.

• Brush and comb her fur weekly to help control mats and hairballs.
• Brush her teeth twice a week to prevent tartar buildup, which can lead to other health problems. Be sure to use a toothpaste made for cats and not humans.
• Trim her claws once a week with cat clippers, carefully avoiding the sensitive base of the nail.
• Wipe her eyes and the insides of her ears with a damp cloth or cotton ball, looking for any excess grime, which could indicate illness.

8. Play with her daily. An active lifestyle that includes daily exercise, like playing, will help keep your cat trim and healthy. Throw balls, toy mice and balled-up pieces of paper for her to chase, or dangle “teaser” toys to keep her active.

9. Bathe your kitten. Occasional bathing of your cat will keep her smelling great and keep dander under control, which may help alleviate any allergic reactions. Make sure you use a cat shampoo and rinse thoroughly, because shampoo left behind will cause your cat to froth when she licks herself.

10. Never feed her human food. Avoid giving your kitten “people food”, such as cow’s milk, tuna and chocolate, which can lead to digestive upset or serious illness. Adding human food treats to your kitten’s diet may cause her to gain too much weight. Now that you’ve got the basics covered with these kitten care tips, you’re ready to welcome that special new family member into your life.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Test Your Emergency IQ

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

It’s a cat owner’s nightmare: Something’s wrong with your cat and your regular veterinarian is not available. You’re left to make a judgment when your cat needs emergency care. Handling critical situations can mean the difference between life and death. Here are some common scenarios.

Circle all those you think require emergency attention, then check your answers.

1. Should you worry? Your cat:

a. just vomited undigested food
b. vomited for the fourth time today and seems lethargic
c. threw up a hairball
d. threw up and you see signs of blood

Correct answers: b and d.
“Owners should try to distinguish vomiting from regurgitation,”  Regurgitation is a natural response to eating too fast.” Vomiting, especially when accompanied by other signs, may be more serious. “If vomiting occurs more than once per day,”or has signs of blood in it, it should be investigated.”

2. Your cat appears to be choking. You should seek emergency help when:

a. it sounds like a hairball is on the way up
b. her mouth is wide open but she’s making no sound
c. she’s pawing at her mouth and taking big swallows
d. she collapses

Correct answers: b and d.
If your cat can’t make noise, she probably can’t breathe, and will die without immediate veterinary care. Fortunately, life-threatening choking is uncommon, Most of the time,” cats are able to expel a foreign body or mucus on their own.”

3. Which ones would cause problems if your cat ingests them?

a. acetominophen (Tylenol)
b. ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin)
c. acetylsalicylic acid (Aspirin)
d. birth control pills

Correct answer: All.
“If an owner sees a cat ingest Tylenol, it is an emergency, Ibuprofen and other non-steroidal anti-inflammatories are also toxic. Birth-control pills are the least dangerous, but ask your veterinarian�s advice if your cat ingests many.

4. You should take your cat to your veterinarian or emergency clinic if she is bleeding from:

a. a cut pad
b. a broken toenail
c. the rectum
d. the nose

Correct answers: a, c and d. But even a bleeding toenail should be examined if it doesn’t stop within five minutes. “A 12-pound cat can safely lose up to two ounces of blood.

5. Your cat jumped off the refrigerator. Which of these scenarios requires a visit to the veterinarian?

a. she won’t bear weight on one of her legs
b. she’s walking with a slight limp
c. she shook one foot violently, glared at you and walked away with a normal stride
d. one leg is now at a funny angle

Correct answers: a and d.
A limb that doesn’t bear weight needs to be examined. “There are myriad reasons for limping,”from a compound fracture or torn ligament to a broken nail or torn footpad.”

6. Which of the following is the most serious?

a. your cat has gone three days without a bowel movement
b. your cat keeps straining in the litter box with no results
c. your cat has three bowel movements a day

Correct answer: b.
“Cats straining to eliminate may be either trying to empty their bowels or their bladders. Constipation is uncomfortable, but a cat unable to urinate can die within 24 hours. An immediate veterinary examination is critical to determine the cause of the straining.

Post the emergency telephone numbers for your regular veterinarian and your local after-hours emergency veterinary hospital. You never know when an emergency may occur.

Veterinarians and their answering services know how to identify emergency situations. By asking a few questions, they will be able to help you take the right course of action. “A simple phone call,” can often determine whether something is a true emergency or not.”

Please visit us at  www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

What Is FLUTD?

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

FLUTD is a term that veterinarians use to describe a set of problems affecting the lower urinary tract in cats. It was formerly known as FUS (Feline Urologic Syndrome).

FLUTD is well-known to veterinarians, with approximately 10% of the cats seen by them having signs of urinary problems. However, FLUTD is not a common disorder in cats in general; it is estimated that FLUTD affects less than 1% of the overall cat population.

Causes and Associated Factors
In many cases of FLUTD, the cause is unknown. In those cases where there is a known reason, the most common cause is urolithiasis, or the formation of stones from accumulations of crystals in the urinary tract. This may be so severe that it completely obstructs the urinary tract and prevents urination.

Many other factors have been associated with this condition, such as gender, age, environmental conditions, and stress. Simply changing a cat�s routine or environment may trigger the onset of FLUTD. Owners may minimize their cat�s risk of developing FLUTD by

• Providing routine veterinary care

• Providing fresh, clean water at all times

• Minimizing stress and providing a comfortable living environment

Signs of FLUTD

Clinical signs vary with this condition. They may be a result of inflammation or irritation of the urinary tract or due to its complete blockage. Signs of FLUTD include, but are not limited to, the following:

• Frequent urination

• Difficult or painful urination (ie, cat may try to urinate but cannot or cries when straining to urinate)

• Inappropriate urination (ie, cat may urinate outside of the litterbox)

• Blood-tinged urine

• Excessive licking of genital area

A cat owner who notices any of these signs should contact their veterinarian, as FLUTD may be a life-threatening situation.

Diet Effects on FLUTD
Diet can affect the development of FLUTD because dietary factors have been associated with the formation of some types of urinary stones, or uroliths. This is particularly true for one of the most common types of stones seen in FLUTD, called struvite. Struvite stones are made up of minerals (magnesium, ammonium, phosphate) that form crystals in the urine. The most important diet-related factor in the formation of struvite stones is urine pH (amount of acidity or alkalinity).

• More alkaline urine (pH higher than 6.8) increases the likelihood of struvite crystal and stone formation

• Urine pH is naturally influenced by the protein source in the diet
  • Cat foods that contain large amounts of animal- and fish-based protein produce a more acidic urine
  • Cat foods that contain large amounts of plant protein, such as soybean meal, may promote a more alkaline urine

• Urine pH is also influenced by how often the cat is fed
  • Urine pH becomes alkaline after a meal
  • When food is always available and a cat nibbles throughout the day, urine pH does not become as alkaline

Another factor that affects the formation of struvite stone is the amount of magnesium consumed through the diet.

• When the cat�s diet contains more magnesium than needed for the body�s functions, the extra magnesium is excreted into the urine. That extra magnesium could contribute to the development of a struvite stone if other conditions are met.
  • If the urine pH is less alkaline (more acid, 6.8 or lower), large amounts of magnesium are required for the formation of struvite crystals.
  • If the urine pH is more alkaline (higher than 6.8), it takes lower amounts of magnesium to promote the formation of struvite crystals.

To minimize the likelihood of struvite stones and signs of FLUTD, a cat food should produce an acidic urine (pH less than 6.8) and contain low dietary levels of magnesium (less than 0.12% on a dry-matter basis).

Please visit us at  www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Giving Your Cat a Pill

By Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

Giving Your Cat Medication With a Minimum of Stress

Partnering with your veterinarian is the key to keeping your cat healthy, and that goes beyond the occasional check-up and immunization. Be sure to schedule veterinary visits at least every six months and to give your cat tender, loving care.

If you do find that your cat needs veterinary care, it’s often necessary to give your cat medications at home after she’s seen the doctor. This, as you may already know, can be a challenge. Most cats aren’t anxious to take medications, and owners often physically struggle with their cats just to get a pill in their mouths. If you’ve ever tried to give your cat a pill, and she managed to get away from you, you know how difficult it is to coax a cat from under the couch.

Besides being a frustrating experience for you, your cat also finds it frustrating and stressful. That’s why it’s important to know an appropriate and easy way to give your cat her medication. Use the following steps to make the medicine go down a little easier.

Step 1: Call for backup. Have a partner hold your cat while you administer the pill. Ideally, your cat should be sitting on a table so she’s at a convenient height to handle. Have your partner hold onto her hindquarters to keep her from backing away from you. If working alone, try sitting with your cat near the corner of the couch�this will help provide a natural barrier to keep her from backing away while you give her the pill. Begin by �palming� your cat’s head. Place one hand firmly over the crown of the skull.

Step 2: Keep your hand on the head and point the mouth upward so her nose is pointing toward the ceiling.

Step 3: With your free hand, take the pill between your thumb and forefinger, then pry open the mouth by inserting your middle finger between the jaws. Your cat should naturally open her mouth. Though she may resist, with gentle pressure, you will be able to get the mouth open.

Step 4: Once the mouth is open, place or release the pill as far back in the mouth as possible and then hold his mouth closed for 5 to 10 seconds. At this point, you must work quickly. If your fingers clear her mouth and you hesitate to close the jaws, your cat will try to spit out the pill. Once the mouth is closed, gently rub her throat to stimulate the swallowing reflex.

After you release her jaws, your cat may still spit out the pill if she hasn’t swallowed. If this happens, it’s probably because the pill was released too far forward on the tongue, which makes it easy for the cat to hold it in her mouth until she’s �free.� Repeat the steps and try to get the pill as far back on the tongue as possible.

With practice and patience, this technique will work without putting a lot of stress on your cat. The method is quick and easy and will keep your cat from dreading pill time.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Finicky Eater?

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009
Is your cat really a finicky eater, or could it be something else? There are many factors to consider when you notice that your cat does not appear to be eating as usual. If you think this is the case, take a closer look at exactly what your cat is eating during a day’s time.

Does your cat eat just a few table scraps or treats? These extras can drastically alter your cat�s normal intake of cat food. It is similar to the feeling you get after eating too much candy or potato chips. Are you interested in a full meal? Neither is your cat.

Feeding Tips for the Truly Finicky Cat
Cats normally eat to meet their energy requirements. However, there is a tendency for humans to think that cats need variety in their diet. This actually is not true. Cats are carnivores whose ancestors ate meat in the wild. It is doubtful that a cat would choose to eat fish one day and chicken the next. Cats thrive on routine and should not tire of one particular flavor of food.
More Feeding Tips

• If, by chance, your cat does start eating less, do not assume that he or she is tired of the food. You many want to look for another factor that is probably causing some stress. Has another animal been added to the household? Has a family member left or died? Have the cat�s surroundings changed, such as a move to a new house? When the stress is removed, your cat will probably go back to a normal diet. If your cat seems healthy, happy and lively, has a good coat and clear eyes, there is little cause for concern.

• Cats have an uncanny ability to smell changes in the world around them. Even a new bowl can disturb a cat�s eating habits. Some cats refuse to eat from a plastic or hard rubber bowl.

• Other factors that may contribute to a change in eating habits are medical in nature. The only way to verify this is to visit your veterinarian. If the medical examination does not verify a problem exists, your cat may be manipulating you in grand style!

What Every Cat Needs

• Regardless of which food you choose to feed, your cat must have plenty of fresh, clean water available at all times. I suggest placing the water three to five feet from the food. This will help prevent your cat from gulping water and air in addition to food.

• Make sure that your cat has a quiet, comfortable place to eat, away from a lot of family confusion.

• And remember, your cat needs to visit the veterinarian regularly. Regular visits help to keep your cat happy and healthy!
• Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Torn Toenail

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

Toenail problems in cats are common and fortunately, are rarely life threatening. The most common problem that affects the toenail is a torn or broken nail. You might not even notice a torn nail until you see blood or your cat begins to limp or cry. As there is a significant blood supply to the base of the nail, bleeding is common.

Nails often get snagged on fabric or carpet fibers, and in an attempt to dislodge the attached material, your cat might pull away, tearing the nail in the process. If left untreated, a torn nail can bleed intermittently and become infected, not to mention the pain and irritation for your cat.

Veterinary Care

Veterinary care can reduce the potential for infection and provide easy removal of the torn nail. Diagnosis is based on examination of the nail. Your veterinarian will note a fracture of the nail and bleeding.

Depending on the extent of the tear, rapid removal of the nail just above the tear is usually sufficient. Unfortunately, this can be painful.

Usually, your veterinarian will clip the nail with nail trimmers and then apply a temporary bandage to stop any additional bleeding. Based on the depth of the tear and severity of the injury, your pet will probably need to take antibiotics.

Home Care

If you try to treat your cat at home, remember: a torn nail is painful for your cat and you should take care to avoid getting bit. The following steps are important:

Initially, you will have to stop the bleeding. You can use silver nitrate or styptic pencils. If you don’t have either of these, try cornstarch or flour. When placed on a bleeding nail, these generally stop the bleeding.

Removing the loose nail is the most difficult part of caring for the torn nail. Most often, you can just pull the loose piece of nail off very quickly. If the nail doesn’t come off easily, you can try to use a pet nail trimmer and remove the nail at the level of the break. Remember, this will probably hurt your cat for a second. If the tear in the nail is high up and near the base of the nail, don’t attempt to remove it with trimmers. If the nail isn’t easily pulled off, see your veterinarian for treatment. The last bone of each toe is very close to the beginning of the nail. Without experience, you may end up hurting your cat more than you realize.

If you manage to remove the damaged part of the nail, gently wash the area with warm water to remove any debris lodged between the nail and the toe or leg. Then apply a temporary bandage if necessary for bleeding. Take care not to wrap the bandage too tight so circulation will not be damaged. Leave it in place for 12 to 24 hours.

If you do not feel comfortable taking care of a torn nail, call your veterinarian. Leaving a torn nail to heal on its own (which will not happen) or allowing the nail to grow out is not a recommended option. This causes persistent irritation and repeated breaks.

Preventative Care

The best preventative care is to trim your pets nails on a frequent basis. Overgrown nails are most commonly torn or broken. Despite trimming nails, torn nails can occur. Stopping the initial bleeding is important. Removal of the remaining piece of broken nail is also key to healing.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Trimming Your Cat’s Toenails

By: Christian Yost

March 28, 2009

It’s that time again – time to trim your kitty’s toenail’s. But while some cats don’t seem to mind when you’re trimming their nails, others just plain don’t like it. And they are not at all shy about letting you know how they feel – by squirming and scratching. Following these suggestions for a proper nail trim might help you give your cat a not-so-arduous manicure.

Start young. The earlier you start clipping your kitty’s claws, the better used to it she will be. Frequent trims when your cat is young will help diminish any fear. Have your veterinarian show you how to do it the first time.

Learn the anatomy. Within the center of each toenail is the blood and nerve supply for the nail called the quick. Most cats have light colored nails so you can see the quick, a pinkish area in the middle of the nail. Cutting into the quick will result in pain and bleeding.

There are a variety of nail trimmers available at pet stores or your veterinarian’s office. Human nail trimmers generally do not work – unless your pet is a young kitten with soft clear nails.

A Clip or an Overhaul

Before you start clipping, determine how much needs to be trimmed. The basic rule of thumb is that the nail, which curls downward, should be even with the paw pad. Whatever hangs over must be clipped.

Procedure

Hold your cat firmly or have someone else help, and if your kitty is not used to getting her nails clipped, be ready for her to squirm.

Gently squeeze down on your cat’s toe knuckles so that the nails are spread out and exposed. Place the trimmer in your dominant hand.

Eyeball the quick and aim a few millimeters below it. If you cut into the quick, referred to as “quicking,” it will hurt your cat and the nail will bleed.

Place the trimmer flush with the pad, place the nail in the trimmer and remove the excess nail. For cats, removing just the sharp pointed tip is often enough.

Although you will take great care not to hurt your pet, sometimes accidents happen and you will cut into the quick. Have silver nitrate products on hand – you can get them at your veterinarian’s office or pet store. You can also use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. If that doesn’t work, apply a light bandage for about 15 minutes. It the bleeding continues, call your veterinarian.

Another option to a traditional nail trimmer is the new “nail grinder” or rotary tool. This device is basically like a dremel tool that grinds your cat’s nail to its desired length. It is easy and fast. The amount you take off is similar to the above.

When using the nail grinder – make sure you introduce it to yourcat slowly. Pet him with it and let him get used to it. Then turn it on and give him a massage with it. Introduce it slowly and when he does well – give him positive reinforcement or a treat.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

How to Tell if Your Cat is Ill

By: Christian Yost

March 26, 2009

Your cat cannot explain his symptoms, so it’s the responsibility of you and your veterinarian to keep him healthy. Cats are very good at hiding their illness so it is up to you to observe your cat for abnormalities.  indications of a “sick pet” include: lethargy, disorientation, weakness,weight loss, seizure, lack of appetite,vomiting, diarrhea, unproductive retching, straining to urinate, bloody urine, difficulty or inability to walk, bleeding, pale mucous membranes, difficulty breathing and persistent cough. You know your pet best and can often notice subtle early warning signs that someone else may not detect. If you observe any of the mentioned symptoms or other signs that concern you, call your veterinary hospital. The safest approach would be to have your pet examined.

Once your pet is at the hospital, your veternarian may ask additional questions to help localize or diagnose the problem. It may help to be prepared to answer some of the following questions:

How long have you owned your cat?

What is the age of your cat?

Has your cat experienced any previous illnesses?

Is your cat currently under treatment for an illness or disease?

Has your cat ever been tested for Feline Leukemia  or Feline AIDS

Where did you get your cat (adoption center, breeder, previous stray, etc.)?

What preventative medications is your cat currently taking?

Does your cat receive any consistent flea treatment?

Has your cat been vaccinated? When? For what?

What other type of pets do you have?

Are any other pets ill?

Have there been any recent acquisitions?

Have there been any recent activities such as boarding, grooming, etc.?

Is the majority of your cat’s time spent indoors or outdoors?

Have there been any recent changes in diet or eating habits?

What brand of food does your cat eat? How much? How often?

Do you offer your pet table scraps?

How frequently and what type of treats are offered?

How much water does your cat typically drink per day?

Have there been any recent changes in water consumption?

What type of litter do you use and how frequently is the litter box cleaned?

Have you noticed any coughing or sneezing?

Have you noticed any lumps or bumps on your cat?

Is your cat urinating normally?

Is your cat having normal bowel movements?

When is the last time he/she had a bowel movement?

Have you noticed any recent weight loss or weight gain?After answering some general questions, more specific questions need to be answered. A brief cursory exam of your pet at home can help you determine the answers. These questions are also commonly asked when pet owners are seeking help over the phone. Be prepared to answer the following questions, depending on the problem with your pet:

Regarding the eyes

Have you noticed an increase or decrease in tear production?

Do the eyes appear cloudy or red?

Have you noticed any discharge?

Do the eyes appear bloodshot?

Are the pupils the same size in both eyes?

Have you noticed your pet rubbing or pawing at eyes?

Is your cat squinting his/her eyes?

Do the eyes appear to be sunken or excessively protruding?Regarding the ears

Do you notice any swelling or discharge from the ears?

Are the ears drooping when they normally stand erect?

Are the ears red and inflamed?

Do you notice any odor?

Is your cat rubbing or pawing at the ears?

Have you noticed a lot of head shaking?

Have you noticed any pain or crying when you rub or scratch your cat’s ears?Regarding the nose

Have you noticed any congestion,sneezing or coughing?

Have you noticed any blood coming from the nose?

Have you noticed any nasal discharge?Regarding the mouth

Have you noticed any swelling of the lips or tongue?

Have you noticed any bleeding from the mouth?

What color are the gums – tissue just above the teeth?

Is your cat able to open and close the mouth normally?

Is there any pain involved in opening or closing the mouth?

Have you noticed any excessive drooling or foaming at the mouth?

Is your cat able swallow food normally?

Are there any foreign objects such as bones or sticks stuck on the roof of the mouth or around the teeth?Regarding the chest

Is your pet experiencing any difficulty breathing?

Have you noticed panting?

Is there any pain when the chest area is petted?

Have you noticed any recent coughing?

What is the heart rate?

Is the heartbeat steady and consistent?

Place your hand or your ear on the left side of your cat’s chest, just behind the elbow. You should be able to feel or hear the heartbeat. Count how many beats the heart pumps in one minute.Regarding the abdomen/stomach area

Has your cat been having any diarrhea  or vomiting?

Is your cat able to eat and drink normally?

Does the abdomen/stomach area appear swollen or distended?

Does your cat have pain when the stomach area is petted?

Is your cat known to chew on non-food items such as clothing, towels, strings, etc.?Regarding the urinary and reproductive systems

Have you noticed any difference in urinating?

Does your cat seem to strain to urinate or cry in pain?

Does your cat repeatedly try to urinate with no urine produced?

Is there any blood in the urine?

How frequently does your cat urinate?

Is your female cat spayed? At what age? Did she ever have kittens?

If your cat was not spayed, when was her last heat cycle and was she bred?

Is your male cat neutered? At what age?

Do you notice any discharge from the vaginal area?

Do you notice any discharge from the penis?

If your cat is not neutered, do you notice any swelling of the testicles?

Have you noticed your cat excessively licking or grooming the genital area?Regarding the musculoskeletal system – bones and joints

Have you noticed any limping?

Are any legs or joints swollen?

Has your cat been excessively licking at one area of his/her legs?

Does your pet show signs of pain when walking?

Is your cat able to walk normally?

Does your cat walk on his/her knuckles?

Does your cat drag any legs when walking?

Have you noticed signs of pain when petting your pet?

By supplying the answers to these questions, your veterinarian will be in a much better position to help your pet. Additional tests  may be necessary to find out what the problem is but the answers to the above questions can greatly narrow the area of concern.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation in Cats (CPR)

By: Christian Yost

March 26, 2009

As much as we try to protect our pets, accidents do happen, so it is important to be as prepared as reasonably possible. One way to be prepared is to know how to give cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR).

CPR is an emergency technique used to help someone whose heart and/or breathing has stopped. Although somewhat modified, the same techniques used for people – rescue breathing and chest compressions – can be used to help treat an animal in distress.

The first lesson to know about CPR is that it doesn’t restart a stopped heart. The purpose of CPR, in both humans and animals, is to keep them alive until the heart begins beating on its own or a cardiac defibrillator can be used. In people, about 15 percent of those getting CPR actually survive. In animals, CPR is frequently unsuccessful, even if performed by a trained veterinarian Even so, attempting CPR will give your pet a fighting chance.

The ABCs of CPR

In both humans and animals, you must follow the ABCs: airway, breathing and circulation, in that order. If you suspect your pet is in distress, immediately look at his posture, any presence of blood, vomit or feces; his breathing pattern and other bodily sounds; and any materials, such as possible poisons, around him.

It is vital to know for sure that your pet isn’t breathing or doesn’t have a pulse before beginning CPR; it is dangerous to apply CPR to an animal (and a person, for that matter) if they are breathing normally and have a pulse.

Look for the chest rising and falling or place a mirror  in front of his nose and watch for condensation. When checking for a pulse, remember that animals do not have a distinct carotid (neck) pulse. To determine if the heart is still beating, place your hand on the left side of the chest.

Airway

If your pet has stopped breathing, check to see if the throat and mouth are clear of foreign objects. Be careful about placing your fingers inside the mouth! An unresponsive cat may bite on instinct. If the airway is blocked, do the following:

Lay your pet down on his side.

Gently tilt the head slightly back to extend the neck and head, but be very careful: Do not overextend the neck in cases of neck trauma!

Pull the tongue out of your pet’s mouth.

Carefully use your fingers to sweep for any foreign material or vomit from the mouth.

If necessary, perform the Heimlich maneuver.
Breathing

If your cat is breathing, allow him to assume the position most comfortable for him. If not, make sure the airway is open and begin rescue breathing.

Again, remember that even an unresponsive cat may bite on instinct.

Make sure the neck is straight without overextending.

Close the mouth and lips by placing your hand around the lips and holding the muzzle closed.

Place your mouth over the cat’s mouth and nose. Your mouth will form a seal.

Exhale forcefully. Give four or five breaths quickly.

Check to see if breathing has resumed normally. If breathing hasn’t begun or is shallow, begin rescue breathing again.

Give 20 to 30 breaths per minute.

Now check for a heartbeat. If no heartbeat is detected, begin cardiac compressions with rescue breathing.

Circulation

For most animals, chest compressions are best done with the animal lying on his side on a hard surface.

Make sure your pet is on a hard surface. The sidewalk or ground should work. If the animal is on a soft area, chest compressions will not be as effective.

Place your palm or fingertips over the ribs at the point where the raised elbow meets the chest.

Kneel down next to the animal with the chest near you.

Compress the chest about 1 inch at a rate of twice per second. (Small animals have higher heart rates than people so compressions need to be more rapid.)

Begin 5 compressions for each breath. After 1 minute, stop and check for a heartbeat. Continue if the beat has not resumed.

Perform CPR until you have reached a veterinary hospital . After 20 minutes, however, the chances of reviving an animal are extremely unlikely.

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com

First Aid Kit for Cats

By: Christian Yost

March 26, 2009

Emergencies can occur any time and the best thing to do is be prepared. Having a first aid kit ready will help to reduce anxiety if an emergency does happen. Keep the kit readily available and periodically check to make sure all the items are up to date and present. A small plastic toolbox or fishing tackle box works well to hold all the necessary equipment.

On the outside of the box, write your name, address and telephone number in case you lose it. Also include the telephone number of your veterinarian as well as the telephone number of a local veterinary

emergency facility.

If you leave someone to care for your pets, make sure to discuss your pets with them. Make sure they understand what you consider an emergency, how to contact you, the name and phone number of a secondary contact person you trust to make decisions on your behalf if you were unavailable, and where to take your pet in case of an emergency.

You may want to consider leaving a credit card number to pay for any unplanned expenses relating to your pet’s health.

Once the emergency information is complete, it would be a good idea to have separate information sheets for each pet. Include a photo of each pet with the name, age, breed, sex, identification (microchipping information), and any health problems. This can help if your pet is lost or if someone unfamiliar with your pet is needed to care for him.

A well-stocked first aid kit for cats includes:

Roll cotton

Some cotton balls

Gauze pads

Gauze tape

Hydrogen peroxide (check the expiration date)

Hydrocortisone ointment

Scissors

Eyewash

Tweezers

Silver nitrate

Oral syringes

Pediolyte® or other balanced electrolyte fluid

Baby food– meat flavors work best

Large towel

Exam gloves

One inch white tape (in addition to gauze tape)

Rolls of elastic wrap

Emergency ice pack

Thermometer (both oral and rectal thermometers can be used rectally)

Please visit us at www.siamese-cattailscattery.com